Mountain Project: Climbing Central Coast

This is the main cragging destination by droves on the weekends. You will find one 5.6 crack and a lot of 5.10 and above face climbs that are top-ropable here. Mostly sport, some routes require pro to lead. Enough routes to last you a good day, and plenty of fun projects to spend some time on. Check out Camel, Lama, Western Airlines, Curly Shuffle, and Only Way to Fly.

It's always shady since the trees shade it, and the TR anchors for the far left and right routes are easily found by following the worn trails around the rock.

Getting There

From the entrance to Bishop Peak hiking area, follow the trail markers indicating Bishop Peak trail. You should head up and then left into the trees. From there, you'll find a post that shows where the climber trail breaks off. This is basically Approaches for Dummies.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cracked Wall:

60 Seconds Over Soledad 5.6 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Civilized Evil 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Lama 5.10b Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Camel 5.10b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Only Way To Fly 5.10c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Western Airlines 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Rat Race 5.11+ R Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Featured Route For Cracked Wall

Lama 5.10b CA : Central Coast : ... : Cracked Wall

Start 6' to the right of a large oak tree at the far right end of the Cracked Wall, directly below 2 bolts. An alternate, significantly easier start, traverses in from 8' to the right of the direct start. Climb the slabby face past several shallow, finger pockets up to twin horizontal cracks and your first gear. Work left along the ramp to clip the first bolt. Continue up into dish, clip second and final bolt, and continue up past a horizonta...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Cracked Wall

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BETA PHOTO: A photo montage of the center area of Cracked Wall...	BETA PHOTO: Here's a photo montage of the area around Camel (f...	BETA PHOTO: The furthest right side of Cracked Wall (or most N...
BETA PHOTO: Cracked Wall lies in the trees, just off the main ...	BETA PHOTO: Left Side of Cracked Wall.	BETA PHOTO: Right Side of Cracked Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Cracked Routes - 1 of 3	BETA PHOTO: Cracked Routes 2 of 3	BETA PHOTO: Cracked 3 of 3
Bryson, age 2-1/2 years, enjoys the excellent clim...

Comments on Cracked Wall

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By John Knight
Jul 15, 2009
CONDITION REPORT

Chipping & Chopping? - I was up at Cracked Wall yesterday (7/14) & today w/Ken & Blazer(7/15). Blazer pointed out that several of the climbs appear to be "chipped". Hard to tell if it was purposeful or a result of holds coming off in the normal course of climbing.

Several people have confirmed that Only Way to Fly has what might appear to be a chipped "hold" at the crux. This most likely came off in the normal course of someone climbing the route. The broken hold on Only Way to Fly made it harder so it seems unlikely someone did it intentionally.

I think the hammering heard at Cracked Wall (mentioned in a previous post) was the chopping of Mouse Maze.

By Slater
Jul 10, 2009

I was just told by Ken Klis, who heard it from Blazer (who climbs at Cracked Wall a lot!) that there has been tons of chipping going on at Cracked Wall recently. Does anyone know anything about it? He said it was mainly at the crux of the routes. This totally sucks!!!!

By John Dalbey
Jul 14, 2009

I was climbing on P-Wall on Tuesday July 7 around noon and heard what sounded like hammering on rock and then a power tool. My partner didn't
hear it so I didn't investigate. Perhaps what I heard was chipping on Cracked Wall.

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Cracked Wall

Description

Getting There

The Classics