BETA PHOTO: Bishop Peak, from left to right: Cracked Wall (bel...
Description
As you drive into San Luis Obispo from Highway 101, 1, what have you, you'll be struck by the volcanic peak with the big "P" painted and running down the side of the face. You can't miss it. This is the most popular local cragging spot in the county. You'll find bouldering, sport, trad, mixed, you name it.
Being an extinct volcanic plug and one of the seven sisters, you'll find the rock very uniformly featured, some crack, mostly face, a lot of slab. Close to town (five minute drive), Cal Poly, and everything you'll ever need, this is the sure-fire classic spot to get your fix.
Great little hiking spot, too. Take the Felsman Loop around from Patricia's entrance and then go up to the top after finishing that trail. Nice, long, and perty.
Getting There
From Highway 101, take the Highway 1 exit (North toward Hearst Castle). You'll find yourself on a large street, Santa Rosa. Follow this street north about 1.5 miles until you get to Highland Drive (right across from the entrance to Cal Poly). Take a left. Follow Highland Drive west about 1 mile or so (bear left) until it ends at a cul-de-sac. Park on the street. A well-marked trail will be visible. Please be courteous of neighbors, as it is a residential area.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bishop Peak:
This route has a mixture of old bolting ethics and those from Owen's River Gorge. This means the first bolt is about 20 ft off the deck but the ones following are almost on top of eachother. That said, it is still a classic, good enough to be placed on Hans Flourine's top six routes below 5.12! It starts on the left side of the block in the middle of the wall and goes up until you are just below and left of the first bolt. Traverse right, clip th...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Of note to climbers is the issue of raptor nesting. In the Pinnacles NM they close certain routes during raptor nesting. Possibly this is being considered at Bishops Peak? I don't know. But if we want to be involved, get your feedback into the city by March. Then again, it may be more prudent to not rock the boat :-)
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Feb 21, 2006
The rock of Bishop Peak (and the surrounding morros) is Dacite. It is an extrusive, high-silica, igneous, volcanic rock (similar to andesite).
From wikipedia,
"The rocks of this group occur in Romania, Almeria (Spain), Argyll and other parts of Scotland, New Zealand, the Andes, Martinique, Nevada and other districts of western North America, Greece as well as other places. They are mostly associated with andesites and trachytes, and form lava flows, dikes, and in some cases form massive intrusions in the centers of volcanoes.
The word dacite comes from Dacia, a Roman province found between the Danube River and Carpathian Mountains (nowadays modern Romania) where the rock was first described."
Visited this place for the first time last weekend. The climbing was unexpectedly good and the grades felt pretty honest. Respect. Even more interesting were all the people we met. All hospitable, fun, funky people with far less attitude then Santa Cruz County crowd I'm used to. Good restaurants and bars and a killer party at "The Stab". Worthy of many more visits. Keep it real SLO!
"I met w/John Dalbey yesterday and we had a very productive dialogue out at Shadow (Ken Klis and Dave Delkeskamp were there as well). I see how my actions have adversely impacted people. Believe me; I'm as interested as anyone in addressing the concerns that have been raised.
Recently, this has resulted in a "bolt war"? and someone has chopped the Mouse Maze bolts and smashed the Mouse Maze anchor bolts (which were shared w/Ken's route to the right of MM). Bolt wars are UGLY and benefit no one. They typically leave the rock more scarred than if it was left alone. Whoever did this cowardly act of removing MM should step forward and admit to what they did. I would like to meet with them in person and have them explain their actions to me.
Bottom line, JD & I agreed the best thing for everyone was for me to agree to a "cease fire"? for 6 months. This includes NO new routes, bolt replacement, lichen scrubbing, rock scarring, spray painting, vegetation removal/cutting/clearing, bolt installation, base modifications, fiddling w/bolts, etc., etc. for at least 6 months. I have agreed to leave the bolt gun, lichen brush & clippers at home.
Ken Klis later suggested I jack that up to 1 year. One year is fine w/me. In a year, emotions should calm down and people can think more clearly. I suggest in August 2010, we re-visit the issues with those most concerned and discuss how to move forward from there. Perhaps we can all agree to meet out at Bishop's and open a dialogue about climbing/climber impacts and how to address those impacts. Maybe combine this discussion w/an Access Fund Crag Cleanup Day.
Thank you (and others that have gotten caught up in this) for your e-mails and your patience.
I'm looking forward to just spending some time out rock climbing.
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