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Mugu Rock

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A: Arete 
B: Crack 
C: Crack 
D: Crack 
E: Crack 
F: Crack 
G: Crack/Face 
H: Crack 
Traverse 

Mugu Rock

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009
Administrators: Mike Morley, andy patterson
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BETA PHOTO: The traverse (5.11+), Mugu Rock


Description 

Home to several short, high quality, moderate crack climbs on slightly overhanging rock. The boulder is periodically painted with a semi-gloss paint which masks the graffiti and makes the rock unusually slick for hands and feet.

Several Glue-In eyebolts adorn the top of the boulder. A few small cams and medium stoppers offer additional anchor possibilities. Scramble up and descend the climber’s-right side of the boulder (class-3)

  • *Contributor's Note: all of the route grades are given using the YDS, simply because this is the convention that has been used by guidebook authors for over 20 years (Hellweg & Warstler, Craig Fry, Steve Edwards, etc.). Most of the routes fall into the VB or V0- category.


Getting There 

Located in the parking turnout, on the ocean-side of the highway. You can't miss it!


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mugu Rock:
B: Crack   5.9     TR, 25 feet   
A: Arete   5.9+     TR, 20 feet   
D: Crack   5.10-     TR, 25 feet   
C: Crack   5.10     TR, 25 feet   
G: Crack/Face   5.11-     TR, 25 feet   
Traverse   5.11+     Trad, TR, 70 feet   
Browse More Classics in Mugu Rock

Photos of Mugu Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Audrey & Drew climb the offwidth (route D) at Mugu Rock.

Audrey & Drew climb the offwidth (route D) at Mugu...

Marisa Fienup enjoying another stellar evening at Mugu Rock

Marisa Fienup enjoying another stellar evening at ...