Spontaneous Order 

FA:  Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (April 2008) Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  4 pitches, 350 feet Views: 386 page views Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Nov 25, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Route topo for Spontaneous Order (5.10a, 4 pitches...

Description 

An outstanding link up that combines pitches from 4 different routes to climb the western wall of the Central Gully. All belays are positioned at spacious ledges with tremendous views. The summit is spectacular.

While the climbing is not as continuous or quite as high quality as P.I.H., the length and diversity of climbing makes this one of the single best outings in the Fortress.

Pitch 1: Footprints (5.4)
Pitch 2: Blue In Green (5.6 PG13)
Pitch 3: Choose between Magali's Arete, the right-hand variation, and
Rational Expectations, on the left (both 5.7)
Pitch 4: Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a)

Location 

Climbs the right-hand (western) wall of the Central Gully. Approach as for Footprints.

There are 2 possible descents:
Option 1: Rappel the route that you climb, except rappel from the top of Blue In Green to the bottom of Snickerdoodle and then scramble to the top of Footprints (Blue In Green is over 100 feet long!!!)
Option 2: Rappel into the Right Side Gully utilizing anchors on Adaptive Expectations, Capitalism & Freedom, and Free to Choose

Protection 

Mostly big fat bolts. A "Fortress Rack" will help fill the gaps on pitches 2 & 3. All belays are bolted.

Photos of Spontaneous Order Slideshow

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Marisa Fienup pulls the final few moves before rea...

David Abzug climbs Rational Expectations as David ...