By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 13, 2008 rating: 5.10d
CONDITION REPORT
6 lead bolts
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Nov 20, 2007
This is a fun climb, but moving past the 4th bolt can be a bit confusing as you can choose two different and equally (I think) challenging routes. Going direct via a crimp and high-step seems logical, but a series of fun lie-back moves a couple of feet to the left offer a interesting way to surmount the crux. You choose. Just be sure not to go TOO far to the left. It's tempting...
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 8, 2008 rating: 5.10d
This route is awesome! Very interesting movement on quality sandstone. The bolts very thoughtfully protect the harder moves. 3-1/2 stars!!
As Andy mentions, the clear crux encounter arrives at the 4th bolt. Stay right of the 4th bolt for a single, strenuous, reachy move off of a left-hand, 2-pad crimp (5.10d). Climb larger features left of the 4th bolt for an easier variation (5.10c).
The anchor at the top of this route gets my vote as the single worst in the Gorge. It is comprised of two 1/2" wedge bolts in loose, cracked blocks. Both bolts wiggle playfully in their holes. The old-school open shuts are the least sketchy part of the anchor. UPDATE: the route now sports a beefier anchor with Mussy Hooks.
Wheeler Gorge
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