Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

It is possible to climb at Sespe Gorge year round; however, hot summer days can be unpleasant and winter is hit or miss. Warm, winter days can actually be fantastic as this is the only time of year when you are likely to have the wall to yourself. Just keep in mind that you will climb in the shade for most of the day. Also know that Hwy 33 is subject to occasional closure due to snow, and even on warm days, high water can make the wall completely inaccessible.

The rappel-situation at Sespe is esoteric, to say the least. The two trade routes (Tree Route and Ending Crack) funnel parties to one top anchor and down one multi-pitch rappel line. On busy weekends, the rappel line can become congested. Fortunately, the rappel line shares little ground with the climbing route of Ending Crack.

Parties descending the usual rappel line are required to share a fixed anchor with any party that is climbing Ending Crack. Climbing parties and rappel parties share the P1 fixed anchor ALL THE TIME. So, do not be surprised when that party behind you starts firing up the first pitch well before you've begun your rappel. Please be friendly and accommodating whether you are the ones climbing or rapping.

None of the alternate descents from Ending Crack and Tree Route is appealing.

For almost half a century, climbers on Ending Crack have belayed from the crack (it IS a crack, eh). Granted, it is not as convenient, but it's one way to avoid a CF at the fixed anchor.

The Black Wall has sprouted 2 new sets of bolts--one that is 80 feet below the P1 bolts of ending crack (an intermediate rap station?) and one part way up the first pitch of Wadka.

If you have information about these (who, what, when, etc.) please post it here.

Re: 2 "new sets of bolts" as mentioned by Matt from last year. I do know the 2000 Edwards Guide mentions the 2 bolts next to Ending Crack so they've been there at least that long. I don't understand the point of the single bolt about 50' up just to the right of Wadka. Maybe someone thought it would make a good spot for a rap station?

Can someone confirm if I have the location of the Pine to Pine route correct in the beta photo? I haven't climbed it, but wanted to show it since it offers an alternative if Tree Root & Ending Crack have traffic. What's the best way off it? Are there bolted belay stations or do you rap down to the bolted belay on Tree Root? How's the rock quality? How solid are the intermediate belays? Edwards book (2000) says the "pro is pretty thin and the rock not stellar." Edwards gives it no stars. The Tucker Steel Guide (1994) doesn't mention rock quality or pro and gives it 1 star. Any comments would be helpful. thanks!

John,
First off, THANKS for enriching the Sespe page with all of your recent contributions.

In regard to the bolts alongside Ending Crack, the Steve Edwards book refers to the 3-bolt rap-station that is approximately 140 feet up. These were placed by Reese Martin in '99. The additional bolts lower down (which have since been removed) are the ones that we were questioning the origin of.