BETA PHOTO: Red: Classically Liberal (5.10d) Yellow: Consumpti...
Description
This route is very unusual for the Fortress--steep and strenuous with lots of dynamic movement. Many of the holds on the route are opposing side-pulls or pinches.
The decisive crux of the route is passing the second bolt. The remainder of the route checks in at sustained 5.9.
Location
This route and its 10a neighbor are located on the front-most and right-most flatiron in the Fortress. From the base of "Free to Choose," traverse 40 yards right to the start of the route. "Classically Liberal" is the right-hand of 2 routes on the formation.
Protection
6 lead bolts (1/2" Rawls) plus 2 open shuts (11kN Fixe Supershuts). Carry a #1 or #2 TCU to really sew it up below the final lead bolt.
Be careful when clipping the second bolt as a fall with slack out will result in ground-fall (less confident climbers can pre-hang a draw or even stick-clip the second bolt from the ground). Once clipped, the second bolt offers excellent protection through the crux sequence.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Oct 23, 2007
Shorter climbers may find that clipping the second bolt is a little reachy and off balance.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Feb 21, 2008
This route stands out in my mind for its unique moves on rock of surprisingly good quality. The crux, as I recall, seemed quite balancy and technical. Definetely not a thoughtless jug-pull! The upper section stays moderately engaging at 5.9.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 25, 2009
This route is 5.11a or b if you stay close to the second bolt. It is possible to climb six feet to the right around the crux, dropping the grade to about 5.10c.
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