BETA PHOTO: Line of "Natural Rate of Unemployment"
Description
The “Natural Rate of Unemployment” follows a series of flakes and edges up the steep face on the left hand flatiron of the Fortress. The crux involves awkward stemming and thin face moves through the middle section of the route. This is followed by easier climbing to a set of rap rings next to the prominent pine tree near the top of the formation. A single rappel or lower with a 70 meter rope from the rings by the pine tree will get you back to the base. If you’re climbing with a 60 meter rope, continue 6 meters (easy 5th class) past the tree rings to the anchors at the top of the formation and rappel “Capitalism & Freedom” (two rappels with a 60 M).
The “Natural Rate of Unemployment” still has a lot of lichen, moss, and some loose rock. I recommend wearing helmets and keeping clear of the line-of-fire while belaying until things clean up. Depending on how the route cleans up it may get easier as the lichen and moss come off, or it may get harder as holds shed. In the FA state, with very little cleaning, I give it a 5.10+ rating.
Protection
13 bolts lead to a set of rap rings. The bolts are mostly 4"x3/8" Rawls with a few 3-1/2"x3/8" SS Fixe thrown in. The rap rings were placed with 3-1/2"x1/2" Rawls.
Until this route gets some ascents, or I forget how hot it can get up there and go back and do some cleaning, expect lichen, moss, and loose rock. If you aren’t into this sort of thing, don’t climb it for a year or so.
By Romain Wacziarg From: Los Angeles CA Jun 2, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Erik, good to know you went and finished your route. Can't wait to try it out... And thanks for keeping up with the Friedman theme!
went up to scope the Fortress to see if it had been developed. to my excitement it had. Ive alway thought it could have potential so when I saw the line of bolts up the face I had to do it then and there. It has a awesome setting with the route straight up the middle of the prominent spire to the left of the gully. I really liked the climb but with night approaching I knew I had to do it now or wait. I couldn't wait so I went for it, a little bit loose. the flakes are nice edges but exfoliation is occurring I fell after the 7th bolt or so when my bomber foothold sheered off surprising my belayer since I gave him no warning. so any way, I gathered my wits started over, then finished nicely fun moves stoked and pumped. It felt 5 10a/b and it may get harder as it exfoliates
Ian Graham climbed on summer solstice 2007
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Oct 28, 2007
I just climbed Natural Rate of Unemployment and I must say it was quite an adventure. My partner and I didn't know what it was rated, but the line of bolts looked so tempting that I jumped on lead and onsighted the pitch. It was, however, a little nerve-wracking at times due to the loose rock and prolific amounts of lichen. I second Erik Anderson's comment that if you aren't into "this sort of thing" then perhaps you should move to a different crag. If, however, adventure climbing (per the lichen and loose rock) makes your spine tingle with excitement, then do this route. You won't be disappointed.
By Romain Wacziarg From: Los Angeles CA Dec 19, 2007 rating: 5.10b
TRd with Robert Zeithammer on 12/07/07. This will be a great route once it cleans up some more. We broke two holds on our climb, including one important foothold, so it is probable the route will get harder as it gets climbed. Also, it is possible to climb past the belay anchors, to the anchors of Capitalism and Freedom, and rap down that route for the descent.
From the top of this route to the anchors of Capitalism & Freedom is not easy 5th class as described in the description. the last 15' of Capitalism & Freedom is at least 5.9 climbing up a fairly steep slabby face. do this approach roped!
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