Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."
Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a, 80 feet, 5 bolts) Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.
Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts) Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.
Location
The route starts just a few feet left of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." Approach as for that route.
Two single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you back to the start of the route. Descend from here by making one more rappel from the top of P1 of "Free to Choose."
Protection
1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts. An optional cam or two (tiny to 1.5")--the 2nd pitch crux is not optimally protected because the rock near the crux is not solid enough to yield a reliable bolt.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Feb 12, 2007
This formation gets my vote as the coolest summit that has been climbed thus far--GREAT position and great view of the other routes.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Feb 22, 2007
"Capitalism" consists of the softest rock of any of the routes put up so far. Expect this pitch to change as it cleans up. The current difficulty rating is dependent upon a few small holds that may or may not last.
By Jeff Mahoney From: SB, CA Feb 23, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
I'm leaning toward a 10b rating.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 2, 2007
The sequence that I use passing the second bolt is still intact and should last. Pull on positive, opposing side-pulls, hike your feet up, and reach for a good edge near the third bolt (5.10a).
Excellent climb matt. Particularly enjoyed the chance to sink a jam or two (and even a pointless cam) on the second pitch. I thought 10.a was pretty fair for the first pitch, don't remember any tricky moves, and 10.b is about where I start to notice.
Watch your step at the base of this one, nearly stepped on a baby rattler all coiled up and invisible on the way out.
Climbed it again and I agree, it's got the best summit and climbing of all the Fortress routes. PIH is a close second just for the exposure on the arete though. Great stuff.
By Eileen From: Ventura, California Apr 20, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
I thought the first pitch could deserve a 10a/b rating. I thought so the first time I went up but now that I've done it twice I'm even more leaning towards a 10a/b rating.
Definitely a lovely view!
By Romain Wacziarg From: Los Angeles CA Apr 28, 2007 rating: 5.10b
I led this for the second time yesterday and agree with those who lean towards a 10b rating for P1. Some stuff may have broken off, too, between bolts 2 and 3.
Right Side Gully
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