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Potrero John
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Menage a Trois 

5.10b PG13

   

FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard (lead traditionally, without bolts!)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Views: 158 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 16, 2006


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Description 

Once again, a very fun route on good rock in an idyllic setting.

There is one insecure and poorly protected move.


Protection 

4 bolts (you'll long for another) to anchors. The Edwards guidebook says to bring along small pro, but this additional pro is difficult to place well.




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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 4, 2006

Take care getting to the second bolt if leading!

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 11, 2006

According to tests done by Duane Raleigh (published in Climbing Magazine, Oct. 1992), the type of bolt used on "Menage a Trois" has functionally no strength in 2000psi rock (rock which is TWICE as hard as Poterro John's sandstone). For more info, see Anchors Away

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 17, 2006

As of October 2006, someone has replaced all four lead bolts with 3/8" Rawl-style expansion bolts.