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Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) 

5.11a

   

FA: Stuart Ruckman, 1992
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 241 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006


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Description 

Fun climb on excellent rock. Not nearly as sustained as Danger Boy.

Start with a series of fun moves on the right side of a steep arete (5.9). Avoid stepping left into the dirty corner for as long as possible. After gaining a large ledge, easy climbing follows a series of broken features to the crux.

The one-move crux is pulling straight up over a small roof (5.11a, only 5.10d for the over six-foot crowd). Take the time to find the positive crimp for your right hand before pulling. Stepping right or left to avoid the steepest line drops the grade to as low as 5.9.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains.

The crux is very well protected.



Comments on Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 22, 2006

The Edwards guide book refers to a 5.9 version that stays left in the dirty corner to avoid the roof. This is not recommended.

This corner is filled with loose rock, and clipping the top 2 bolts is awkward and difficult.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 24, 2009

Originally listed as 5.9, with an 11b variation that stays right of the bolts through the roof and face.