Sustained and interesting climbing on excellent rock. One 5.11a move yields to sustained 5.9+ climbing. Much of the climbing involves long reaches (and may be somewhat height-dependent).
Catch your breath on the large ledge at midpoint before tackling the pumpy and exposed headwall above (5.9+).
Protection
7 bolts to anchors.
The opening moves are awkward and unprotected. Many climbers will benefit from a stick-clip. The crux itself is very well protected. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. Be careful.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Feb 22, 2006
An excellent variation for the non-5.11 leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR.
The cold shut anchors for this line are in need of replacement. I was there over christmas and both bolts wobbled in there respective holes. The old SMC hanger above looks alright.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Sep 5, 2007
The anchor atop Danger Boy consists of two solid 1/2" x 5" Rawl-syle expansion bolts with open shuts backed up by an additional expansion bolt equipped with a chain.
The two lower bolts now sport new Fixe Supershuts.
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