Economique 

FA:  TR: Gould / Lead: Matthew & Marisa Fienup (2005) New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 320 page views Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Rob Chaney climbs Economique, at Wheeler Gorge.

Description 

This route follows the arete and face around the corner to the left of Goulara. Sustained and interesting climbing with great exposure! One 5.10a move followed by mostly-5.8 climbing.

Clip the first three bolts of Goulara, turn the corner and follow bolts to the top.

The crux of the route is right off the ground and unprotected--bring a stick-clip.

Consider leading the first six bolts of Economique, extending the seventh with a long runner, and finishing on the anchors of Goulara--this is a great way to TR Economique's classic nextdoor neighbor.

Protection 

7 bolts to fixed anchor (the top anchor consists of a 1/2" rawl and a 3/8" wedge bolt equipped with mussy hooks).

Climbing to the first bolt involves a 5.10a move over an ugly landing. Falling would be disastrous. All but the boldest climbers should bring a stick-clip.

Add Photo Photos of Economique

Rob Chaney climbs Economique, at Wheeler Gorge.	Rachel Maine, of Santa Paula, climbs the exposed u...	Rachel Maine, of Santa Paula, climbs the sustained...