BETA PHOTO: The wooden platform mentioned in the description.
Description
Starts at a little wooden ledge above the creek. The route follows a short face and then continues up the right-hand side of a slighty overhanging arete.
The crux is actually clipping the last three bolts while hanging off of the arete (the climbing itself does not feel 5.10c). The bolts were actually placed to protect a climb up the middle of the face (to the right of the arete, 5.11+). Thus, clipping the top three bolts requires a LONG and awkward reach. Blow the clip and you will take a very clean but very LONG fall into space.
Note, a lot of rock still comes off of this route. The belayer should not stand on the wooden ledge. Instead, position him/her on the large sycamore tree which can be slung as a ground anchor. Helmets are a must.
This route is sustained, exposed, and aesthetic...one of the very best in Santa Barbara and Ventura counties.
Protection
8 bolts to 3 bolt top anchor. Top Anchors consist of two 1/2" Rawls with open shuts (the original hardware) and one Fixe Triplex with a Mussy Hook.
Climbing to the first bolt involves a 5.10a move over an ugly landing. Falling would be disastrous. All but the boldest climbers should bring a stick-clip.
This was a hair-raising and really fun route having not stick clipped the first bolt. I found the platform wasn't very necessary, more of a convenience. I took a look at the 11+ to right but was scared enough on the easier variation.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Sep 20, 2008
I did the 5.11+ finish at the end (last three bolts), and found it rather thought provoking, but ultimately safe. Certainly much, much harder than the arete. In fact, I didn't have a guidebook at the time, so I thought the climb was sandbagged 5.10c. Woops. I would like to lead the entire route via the middle line of attack some time. It looks great!
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Sep 22, 2008
Climbing on the face the entire way (which I have only done on top-rope) yields the most sustained route at Wheeler by a mile. It's harder than some 12s that I have done, just for the pump factor.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 24, 2009
The wooden ledge is gone. I found it very dangerous to clip the first bolt, for climber and belayer, therefore not doing the climb. I hope another lower bolt will be put in. july 09
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 5, 2009
There is no reason to add a lower first bolt as it is very easy to stick clip the existing first bolt. The first clip was scary even when the wooden ledge was there.
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