The Crack 

FA:  Yvon Chouinard, early 1970s Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.7 [details] Length:  90 feet Views: 305 page views Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Erica nears the top of the Crack at Foothill Crag,...

Description 

A few tricky moves come right off the deck. Ask for a careful spot from your belayer. Then, an easy wide crack with good pro leads to a ledge with a bush.

Place gear high as leaving this ledge and the bush is the crux of the route (perhaps 5.7). Look for face holds on either side of the crack.

Steep crack and face climbing (5.4) with good pro take you to the top of the route. Look for the fixed anchor immediately atop the crack on the left. Be very suspicious of the two older bolts in the summit boulder.

Protection 

Gear from small (#1 TCU) to 3.5". You might want to double up on medium-sized gear (1/2"-1"). The crux is protected by a solid 2" cam. New fixed anchors atop the crack: two 1/2" Rawl-style five piece expansion bolts (2006).