BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of Foothill Ridge climbing area, Ojai.
Description
Foothill Crag is to the north of Ojai, presumably named as it is because it is at the end of Foothill Road (it is also known as "The Foot", 'though there doesn't seem to be any reason for that). The north-facing crag has two separate areas of gritty sandstone with 18 routes, many with some bolts, but none quite "sport bolted." A couple of the routes have sufficient bolts so one may decide to lead without gear. Small to medium cams will help, but the protection is a bit sparse.
However, all of the routes can be top-roped, so excessive valor is not necessarily required. Several of the routes can be top-roped from fixed anchors accessible from the top of the crag, but several others require using trees and bushes as anchor points and extending the anchor point over the lip of the cliff. Forty or fifty feet or so of static line or webbing is necessary.
Getting There
First, note that there are access issues with Foothill Crag. In former days, climbers would park at end of Foothill Road and walk the 3 minutes to the crag. However, the residents objected and parking is not allowed (and apparently, unauthorized vehicles will be cited and towed).
To get to the crag use the accepted and authorized method: From downtown Ojai, heading east on Ojai Avenue (Highway 150) turn left on Signal Street (there is a light - the signal). Signal Street curves right into Grand Avenue, but continue on Signal towards the hills. Turn left at the National Forest sign that points to "Pratt/Foothill Trailhead." Continue past a watertank on the right to a trailhead parking area.
The trail starts on the south side of the parking area, towards the valley. Hike on the trail (eventually passing between houses and backyards) until the trail reaches Foothill Road. Continue on the road uphill until a gate is reached. Continue past the gate on the now dirt road, passing the west end of a hill on your right (the crag is on the north side of the hill. Take the first trail that leads to the right. The north-facing crag is only partially visible from the road. The hike takes about 25-30 minutes. Lat/Long: 34.4705N 119.2512W
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Foothill Crag ("The Foot"):
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Feb 17, 2006
This isn't really off Highway 33 (although it isn't that far from 33), but it seemed kind of a waste to add another higher-level area for Ojai since this is the only crag likely to be added from directly around Ojai.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Feb 18, 2006
To access the West (smaller) formation, bushwack back away from the top of the East formation. Turn right and continue bushwacking down and to the right until you reach the top of the West formation. Give yourself ten minutes the first time you try. With practice, this approach takes just seconds.
Be advised that the gully which separates formations is a scary approach. Dirty, exposed class 4 moves lead to the top of the West formation. Better to hike around from the east.
Central coast climbers should be advised that the rock at the Foot is softer than that at many other area crags. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion.
In early 2006, I pulled a 3/8" x 3-1/2" wedge bolt straight out of a hole using only moderate pressure. It is very clear that some of the rock at this site is simply not hard enough to resist the mechanical expansion created beneath the surface by climbing bolts.
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