BETA PHOTO: Tree Root (right) & Ending Crack (left).
Description
This route starts two cracks to the right of Ending Crack, sort of underneath a large tree growing at the base of the wall. Climb the splitter to a small tree growing out of the crack and two bolt belay. P2 follows the crack up to left, joining the final segment of Ending Crack and Wadka.
Protection
Pro tho 3in. 2 2-rope rappels. Save the trees, use the anchors.
The second rappel can be done with a single 60m rope. Aim a little left (looking into the rock) of the start.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 16, 2006 rating: 5.6
Beginners will find the first pitch quite challenging to adequately protect. The upper pitch swallows gear easily.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Jan 8, 2007
climbed this in september. one thing to note is that gnats comeout when the wall goes into shade
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jun 11, 2007 rating: 5.6
My 60m rope will not get me within 15 feet of the ground when rapping the first pitch. The only way for me to do it with one rope was to rap onto a ledge high in the gully to the climber's-right of the route and then make a class-3 downclimb. UPDATE: the first pitch is 35m long--when rapping the first pitch with a 70m rope, the two ends hang inches above the ground.
Also, at last check, the 2nd pitch is over 150 feet long. The entire route is more like 300 feet long. UPDATE: the "second pitch" is closer to 170 or 180 feet long. Yesterday, I watched a trio try to climb from the first tree all the way to the rappel anchor with a 50 meter rope...they came up a full 30 feet short.
There is now a #1 Camalot stuck in the middle of the second pitch. Also, I've had ropes get stuck on the second pitch a couple of times.. Has anyone rapped off the top of Tree Route to the bolts at the top of the first pitch of Ending Crack? That seems like a more direct route down...
Also, with regard to length, be sure to bring enough gear. i've seen beginning leaders place too much pro early on and run short near the top. .. the first pitch takes mostly small stuff, larger pieces needed on second pitch. All in all, this is a great place to bring people for their first multipitch climb imho.I agree with Matt's rating, there are a couple of 5.6 moves at the start, then it's mostly a cruise..
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 4, 2009 rating: 5.6
I finally climbed the third pitch...a worthwhile adventure climb.
From the bolted anchor atop P2, step right and follow a crack up to a giant oak tree. Climb through the tree and out onto the face to the right. Continue moving up and then right into the next major crack system. Follow this up to a another large oak tree with rappel slings. This tree marks the end of the 5th-class climbing. From here, a gully leads up toward the top of the wall.
It is recommended to make two short rappels from the big oak trees to get back to the top of P2.
The only unpleasant aspect of this pitch was the extraordinary number of ants at the final belay ledge (I was still finding them in my gear three days later).
Anchor/rappel clarification. Just climbed the first pitch yesterday, which is approx. 110 feet long, up to the first big (first period?) tree. Immediately to the right of the tree there are 2 bolts, equipped to rappel. We rapped from these bolts all the way to the ground with a single 70m rope. Ours must have been a bit longer than Matthew's, as we had several feet piled on the ground on both ends. A fun pitch with emphasis on finger to tight hands gear.
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