BETA PHOTO: Tree Root (right) & Ending Crack (left).
Description
This route starts two cracks to the right of Ending Crack, sort of underneath a large tree growing at the base of the wall. Climb the splitter to a small tree growing out of the crack and two bolt belay. P2 follows the crack up to left, joining the final segment of Ending Crack and Wadka.
Protection
Pro tho 3in. 2 2-rope rappels. Save the trees, use the anchors.
The second rappel can be done with a single 60m rope. Aim a little left (looking into the rock) of the start.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 16, 2006 rating: 5.6
Beginners will find the first pitch quite challenging to adequately protect. The upper pitch swallows gear easily.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Jan 8, 2007
climbed this in september. one thing to note is that gnats comeout when the wall goes into shade
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jun 11, 2007 rating: 5.6
My 60m rope will not get me within 15 feet of the ground when rapping the first pitch. The only way for me to do it with one rope was to rap onto a ledge high in the gully to the climber's-right of the route and then make a class-3 downclimb.
Also, at last check, the 2nd pitch is over 150 feet long. The entire route is more like 300 feet long.
UPDATE: the "second pitch" is closer to 170 or 180 feet long. Yesterday, I watched a trio try to climb from the first tree all the way to the rappel anchor with a 50 meter rope...they came up a full 30 feet short.
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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