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Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Ending Crack 
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Tree Root 

Ending Crack 

5.7 PG13

   

FA: Don Lauria, Dennis Hennek, Tom Ridenour
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Season: year round but winter thr
Views: 1,463 page views

Submitted By: sespegorilla on Feb 13, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Tree Root (right) & Ending Crack (left).


Description 

P1: Follow the striking crack straight up the face to a 2-bolt belay.

P2: Continue up the crack until it peters out, then follow face holds up and right to a shallow face crack to newish 3-bolt anchors.

Walk off to wide gully on the left or rap off anchors via two-rope rappel.


Protection 

Carry pro to 3 inches.



Add Photo Photos of Ending Crack
Mike Nesbitt of Ventura, all smiles on P1 of Ending Crack - May 2002.

Mike Nesbitt of Ventura, all smiles on P1 of Endin...

This is the two bolt rappel station about 70 ft. up on Ending Crack.  The top bolt is a bit rusty and a spinner.  The lower bolt is in better condition and looks a bit more solid.

BETA PHOTO: This is the two bolt rappel station about 70 ft. u...

Nate Conroy looks for pro on Ending Crack's first pitch.

Nate Conroy looks for pro on Ending Crack's first ...

Nate Conroy, Ending Crack

Nate Conroy, Ending Crack

Patty Fienup high on the first pitch of Ending Crack.

Patty Fienup high on the first pitch of Ending Cra...

Matt "Sharma" Geyer on Ending Crack (5.7) gunning for the anchors before the "pump" sets in.

Matt "Sharma" Geyer on Ending Crack (5.7) gunning ...

Jeff "boldly" following Ending Crack (5.7). Don't drop anything on me!

Jeff "boldly" following Ending Crack (5.7). Don't ...

Jeff (again) following Ending Crack (5.7).

Jeff (again) following Ending Crack (5.7).

Topo Showing Ending Crack (5.7) and some of the neighboring climbs. Please let me know if you find changes in anchor locations or bolts so I can update the topo. I don't get the single bolt in the pocket below Wadka. That place seems to be growing bolts!

BETA PHOTO: Topo Showing Ending Crack (5.7) and some of the ne...

Matt's a Crack Addict after cruisin' up Ending Crack (5.7).

Matt's a Crack Addict after cruisin' up Ending Cra...


Add Comment Comments on Ending Crack
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2008
By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 13, 2006

Ending Crack is hands down the best multipitch crack climb on the entire Central Coast. The first pitch is an incredible handcrack that takes gear like nobody's business. The second pitch is a little heads-up. Once the crack ends (yeah, that's why they call it Ending Crack), it's a little tricky to protect. Rap the route w/ 2 ropes. 300'.

By Don Lauria
Feb 24, 2006

Quite frankly, I have no recollection of doing this route. Does anyone know when Dennis and I did it? I guess I could ask Dennis ... he only recently turned 60 and his memory is probably better than mine. Lauria

By Chiranjeeb Buragohain
Feb 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 PG13

Did this route yesterday. I found both pitches were of equal difficulty (5.6) and in fact, the second pitch felt a little more insecure because it was hard to protect as Mike Morley mentioned before.
On the second pitch small cams (red alien and smaller) might make the
protection better. The first pitch is great though. This route (first pitch) and Tree Root are great places for trad climbers to start.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 PG13

The first pitch of Ending Crack absolutely swallows passive gear and cams, making this the single best beginner's lead in Ventura and Santa Barbara. As mentioned, the second pitch is anything but.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 3, 2007

Don Lauria's comment above is a classic. He must not have liked it as much as the rest of us!

By Erik Anderson
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 9, 2007

Thanks for the bolt clean-up! There's no need for any more bolts on Sespe! In fact, I was kind of surprised when the bolted rap stations went in a while back, but I guess they saved the trees.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 28, 2008
rating: 5.7 PG13

I find it helpful to carry 2 sets of TCUs for the second pitch.