Not just anther day of sport climbing: after being...
Description
Wheeler Gorge boasts three totally different surfaces: typical central coast sandstone (Exodus & Blush), a metamorphic green schist (Danger Boy & Stu-Boy), and a conglomerate that consists of mostly fist-sized stones and deep pockets (Cobble Climb, Ezra, Goulara, etc.). The three could hardly be more different when it comes to actual climbing. Together they make for a day of incredible diversity.
With a few exceptions, the grades at Wheeler are soft. The site also exhibits quite a few one-move-wonders. Routes are generally VERY well protected. All of this makes Wheeler an excellent place for aspiring leaders to break into the upper grades (10s & 11s).
The following routes correspond with a topo found here.
A. Monstrosity, 5.11+. Eleven bolts, three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Bolted & toproped by Reese Martin, 1995. Additional bolts & RPÕ by Steve Edwards & Arvin Gunta, 1996. The first 30 feet of this route collapsed in January of 1997. B. Project, 5.11+/12b. Three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Right of Monstrosity. FTR: Reese Martin, 1995. C. Economique, 5.10a - arête left of Goulara. D. Goulara, 5.10c - identified by wooden platform at base. Aquaphobia--Boulder problems: Traverse above pools: L to R, 5.12; R to L, 5.10a. FA: Edwards, Gould, 1996. E. It Is It, 5.12a/b F. Arvin's Rig, 5.10a Four bolts, one cold shut anchor, no hangers. FA: Edwards & Gunta, 1996. G. Ezra, 5.9+** Boulder Problems Under Bridge. Pockets, 5.10/11+.
The following routes are located immediately left of the lower tunnel on the soft sandstone:
Wheeler Gorge Slab Climbs Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 19, 2006
Q. South of the Trout Farm, 5.9 R. Trout Farm, 5.12+. Toprope, 45 feet. Right of South of the Trout Farm. FA: Gould & Agulara, 1996. Trout Farm boulder traverse, 5.11c. Stay low. High variation: 5.10.
The following routes are located left of the upper tunnel on the black conglomerate: S. Scorpion Surprise, 5.9. Vertical pod. Single bolt anchor. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996. Scorpions!! T. Fearless Hyena, 5.10a. Five bolts. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996. U. Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy), 5.11a/b V. Danger Boy, 5.11a ** W. Velocity Boy, 5.11b ** X. The Chimney, 5.2. Unknown. Variation: 5.10 finish on last three bolts of Velocity Boy.
Weather/Climbing Season
Wheeler is the closest thing to a year-round crag near Ojai. Spring and Fall are best. Deep shade and cool breezes make even the hottest summer days tolerable--I've even climbed when the temperature in town was 107 degrees. Winter days require warm clothes as the gorge gets very little sun. Rising water-levels will restrict access to some routes.
Getting There
From the intersection of Hwy 33 & Hwy 150, in the town of Ojai, drive North on Hwy 33 for 7 miles. 150 yards after passing through the third tunnel (the second of two in quick succession), look for the pull-out on the left. Park and walk back through the first tunnel to access most routes. A climbers trail drops down on the right between the two tunnels.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wheeler Gorge:
About a month or two ago, as Matthew noted previously, there was only one shut left at the top of South of Trout Farm. Yesterday, when a friend and I stopped off there for a warm-up, we noted that someone had pounded the remaining shut closed and that bolt was very loose in the hole. I headed back up there early this morning hoping to over drill the existing holes and use the original anchor placements. This turned out not to be possible, as who ever had gone up and pounded the shut closed, had also snapped the bolt off in the hole (that's why it was so loose), making it impossible to cleanly remove the old bolt.
What is wrong with people...In the past, I didn't think climbers were so F'N stupid...don't pound on fixed pro with a hammer or anything else!!! In fact one should not mess with fixed pro at all unless one knows what they're doing!!!!
Anyway, moving on from my short rant, I re-equipped South of Trout Farm with 1/2 x 3-1/2 Rawls and Wire Gate Supershuts. It would still be nice to back fill the old holes with some epoxy, if anyone has the motivation. If not I’ll try and remember to stop and take care of it next time I’m out that way.
Back to my rant...a note to anyone out there who this may pertain to...please do not pound these new Supershuts closed (or any other shuts for that matter), they are perfectly safe as they are! Also, do not steal these Supershuts because you think you may want them for your shit project somewhere else. Get a job and buy your own.
Thanks,
Erik Anderson
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA May 4, 2007
Erik, Thanks for the hard work (AND the rant). If I can ever get a day free, I hope to swap-out the other older-shuts with new super-shuts.
Thanks again.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA May 25, 2008
While not a destination area in and of itself, Wheeler Gorge is a pretty fun crag to spend a half-day if you happen to be in the greater Ventura area. Bring a dozen draws and watch out for poison oak.
I am thinking about bolting new lines at Wheeler Gorge.
Any feedback?
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 2, 2008
I am stoked that you are undertaking this! (I already can't wait to climb the recently finished "IED").
If you haven't already, please get to know the existing pattern of fixed gear at Wheeler (3/8 Rawls on lead, 1/2" anchor bolts). Also, check out the existing 3/8" bolts on the sandstone routes (like Blush & Exodus)--many of them wiggle in their holes indicating that 1/2" diameter Rawls might be better for this surface. And please place quality hardware on rappel anchors (Fixe rappel hangers, Supershuts, Mussy Hooks, etc.). On one recent addition to Wheeler, the top anchor consists of a single Supershut on one bolt and a bolt hanger with a rapid link on the other (not only does this look amateur-ish, I've seen single rapid links cam down on the rope making it irretrievable).
Thanks for your investment of time and energy (and money)!
I lost some gold quicks this last weekend and one of the days I was at wheeler. Please email me at wittwerb@gmail.com if you've seen them.
More importantly, I need to thank those responsible for replacing hardware at wheeler. This is my home crag where I learned how to sport climb that I love to return to. Your efforts aren't going unappreciated. Hope to see you out there.
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