Potrero John

BETA PHOTO: Potrero John

Description 

A quarter mile further up the road from Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) lies this 80' cliff sporting a handful of quality sport routes. Bring traditional gear if planning on climbing the solitary trad line, Beginnings (5.5). Also, some supplementary gear (nuts, TCUs) is recommended if leading Menage a Trois (5.10b). A single rope is sufficient to get off all routes.

The following routes correspond with a topo found here.

0. Should I Stay (5.10b/c) - 4 bolts to anchor, 50'.
A. Should I Go (aka El Potrero) (5.10b/c) - 4 bolts to anchor, 50'.
B. Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) (5.9) - 5 bolts to anchor, 60'.
C. Pro Job, 5.9+. Three bolts, two cold shut anchor. Connects to Miccis at second bolt. 60'.
D. Miccis (5.8) - 4 bolts to anchor, 70'.
E. Menage a Trois (5.10b) - 4 bolts to anchor, supp. gear (nuts, TCUs) if desired, 80'.
F. Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) (5.10c) - 6 bolts to anchor, 80'.
0. Cleaning Lady (5.10c) - 7 bolts to anchor, 80'.

Further right:
G. Beginnings (5.5) - trad, 45'.

Historical Background 

Information care of the late Reese Martin: "In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8" bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a friendly and fun place for the moderate climber. All five bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure, tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.10b, remember the route was first climbed in EBs and protected only by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet."

Getting There 

1/4 mile up the road from Sespe's main "Black Wall". Park in a dirt turnout and walk down the hillside, across Sespe Creek. Approach time: 5 minutes.

The Classics

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