California Ridge Rock Climbing
Kara on top of Cal Cliff
An offwidth, some face climbing and a few cool roofs make up the mixed sport/trad climbing of California Ridge. Possible to toprope routes as well. Off the beaten path and in the Western Addition area of Castle Rock State Park.
Routes are maybe 50' or so. Cool views of the ocean and Monterey Bay.
Same as Aron's description to get to Chew Tooth (thanks Aron):
Approach Time: 15 - 25 minutes.
From the parking lot:Head downhill on the Saratoga Gap trail about 1/4 of a mile,until the first left turn, which indicated with a sign that it'stowards Catle Rock (0.3 miles).
Head up this trail until you see a signpost stating "trail ahead "though there is also a smaller trail that leads right anddownhill. You should take the downhill trail. This will shortly run you into a narrow dirt road which will have several branchings off of it. The one straigt ahead is the one your want to take.
This will quickly split into 2 trails, which you want to take the right one. After a very short while, you will see the top of the Chew Tooth on your left 10 feet left of the trail.
Now that you're at Chew tooth, resist the urge to take the right fork of the trail but instead follow the trail straight and in a minute or so you will see the top of California Ridge ahead. It is on the right side of the trail as it makes a sharp left turn. You can set up a toprope or follow the trail around to the left of the formation
Weather station 4.8 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in California Ridge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in California Ridge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for California Ridge:
Mullah 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 50'
Featured Route For California Ridge
California Five-Eleven A 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CA
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : California Ridge
At the left end of California Ridge lies what is called California Five-Eleven A. Feels harder than the b/c rating that it's given in the guidebook... Two bolts under the roof and some burly moves lead to 15' of face climbing. 3 bolt anchor. Supposedly can be top-roped in a variation to the left though due to the potential swing it is not the best....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Adam on California Ridge.
Ean finishes the off width on California Ridge.
Cal Eleven A Photo: Jim Thornberg
Jun 14, 2015
Anchor bolts to either side are looking questionable. The middle anchor bolts look newish and bomber. If you're gonna climb here take a good hard look at everything first. The anchors over the warmup (right) look especially bad; just don't. I've climbed on the ones to the left before about 2 years ago... not sure I would again.
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 27, 2016
Yep... bolts/hangers to the far left and far right are sketchy. Hangers in the middle, to either side of the crack, are good (but spinning). Bolts are rusted button heads. But seem to be pretty solid.