An offwidth, some face climbing and a few cool roofs make up the mixed sport/trad climbing of California Ridge. Possible to toprope routes as well. Off the beaten path and in the Western Addition area of Castle Rock State Park.
Routes are maybe 50' or so. Cool views of the ocean and Monterey Bay.
Same as Aron's description to get to Chew Tooth (thanks Aron):
Approach Time: 15 - 25 minutes.
From the parking lot:Head downhill on the Saratoga Gap trail about 1/4 of a mile,until the first left turn, which indicated with a sign that it'stowards Catle Rock (0.3 miles).
Head up this trail until you see a signpost stating "trail ahead "though there is also a smaller trail that leads right anddownhill. You should take the downhill trail. This will shortly run you into a narrow dirt road which will have several branchings off of it. The one straigt ahead is the one your want to take.
This will quickly split into 2 trails, which you want to take the right one. After a very short while, you will see the top of the Chew Tooth on your left 10 feet left of the trail.
Now that you're at Chew tooth, resist the urge to take the right fork of the trail but instead follow the trail straight and in a minute or so you will see the top of California Ridge ahead. It is on the right side of the trail as it makes a sharp left turn. You can set up a toprope or follow the trail around to the left of the formation
Stick clip the first bolt before the big 5.9+ mantle move. Careful not to pull the lip off with your left hand, it's cracking! Once over the lip, follow 5th class up to ledge placing small gear on the way if you like. Cool 10d friction moves to the top. Trust your feet, this rock sticks! Two bolt anchor...[more]Browse More Classics in CA