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California Night Area
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California Night 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

Type:  Trad, TR, Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Bachar, Long, or Kauk 1970s
Page Views: 2,362
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Jun 28, 2006
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BVB pulling the crux move on California Night 5.11...
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


This sterling route climbs a steep finger crack for about 15 feet. A couple of good ring locks lead to a typical Woodson top-out crux. Those comfortable at the grade can easily boulder this, otherwise for the rest of us two bolts at the top provide an anchor for this classic problem.


After rounding the corner from the Uncertainty Principle Area, e.g., Pickpocket, continue past a heavily chalked "blasted boulder" to a tight left switchback. Looking up and to the right from this corner is a wide offwidth crack, beneath which, and not seen from the road, is California Night. Follow the trail from the road in, up and right to this gem!


Two bolts for TR

Photos of California Night Slideshow Add Photo
California Night (5.11a/b)
BETA PHOTO: California Night (5.11a/b)
Stack on his first ever attempt of California Night (5.11a/b).  Two moves later I bailed to come back later with a bit of cord.
Stack on his first ever attempt of California Nigh...
Look for this wide crack on switchback before the Jaws Area to follow a faint trail to California Night (5.11a/b).
BETA PHOTO: Look for this wide crack on switchback before the ...
California Night.
BETA PHOTO: California Night.
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By Adam Stackhouse
Jun 28, 2006

To set up a TR, tunnel under the scrub oak to the right of the crack to gain the top. Another fun warm-up alternative is to go around the left of California Night and on the backside of the boulder and climb a 5.9 grainy/juggy face to set up.

By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 4, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  V2 5+

By Drew K
Feb 25, 2013

On of my favorite climbs to date at Woodson. I got spooked on the top-out myself.