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BVB pulling the crux move on California Night 5.11...
This sterling route climbs a steep finger crack for about 15 feet. A couple of good ring locks lead to a typical Woodson top-out crux. Those comfortable at the grade can easily boulder this, otherwise for the rest of us two bolts at the top provide an anchor for this classic problem.
After rounding the corner from the Uncertainty Principle Area, e.g., Pickpocket, continue past a heavily chalked "blasted boulder" to a tight left switchback. Looking up and to the right from this corner is a wide offwidth crack, beneath which, and not seen from the road, is California Night. Follow the trail from the road in, up and right to this gem!
Two bolts for TR
BETA PHOTO: California Night (5.11a/b) ©
Stack on his first ever attempt of California Nigh...
BETA PHOTO: Look for this wide crack on switchback before the ...
BETA PHOTO: California Night.
By Adam Stackhouse
Jun 28, 2006
To set up a TR, tunnel under the scrub oak to the right of the crack to gain the top. Another fun warm-up alternative is to go around the left of California Night and on the backside of the boulder and climb a 5.9 grainy/juggy face to set up.
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 4, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+
By Drew K
Feb 25, 2013
On of my favorite climbs to date at Woodson. I got spooked on the top-out myself.