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California Night Area
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California Night 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Boulder, 15'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Bachar, Long, or Kauk 1970s
Page Views: 3,011
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Jun 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BVB pulling the crux move on California Night 5.11...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This sterling route climbs a steep finger crack for about 15 feet. A couple of good ring locks lead to a typical Woodson top-out crux. Those comfortable at the grade can easily boulder this, otherwise for the rest of us two bolts at the top provide an anchor for this classic problem.

Location 

After rounding the corner from the Uncertainty Principle Area, e.g., Pickpocket, continue past a heavily chalked "blasted boulder" to a tight left switchback. Looking up and to the right from this corner is a wide offwidth crack, beneath which, and not seen from the road, is California Night. Follow the trail from the road in, up and right to this gem!

Protection 

Two bolts for TR


Photos of California Night Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: California Night (5.11a/b) ©
BETA PHOTO: California Night (5.11a/b) ©
Rock Climbing Photo: Look for this wide crack on switchback before the ...
BETA PHOTO: Look for this wide crack on switchback before the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Dabbert giving it some burns.
Bill Dabbert giving it some burns.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stack on his first ever attempt of California Nigh...
Stack on his first ever attempt of California Nigh...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Dabbert getting psyched!
Bill Dabbert getting psyched!
Rock Climbing Photo: California Night.
BETA PHOTO: California Night.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Dabbert's try hard face due to some compromis...
Bill Dabbert's try hard face due to some compromis...

Comments on California Night Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 28, 2006

To set up a TR, tunnel under the scrub oak to the right of the crack to gain the top. Another fun warm-up alternative is to go around the left of California Night and on the backside of the boulder and climb a 5.9 grainy/juggy face to set up.
By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Feb 4, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  V2 5+

By Drew K
Feb 25, 2013

On of my favorite climbs to date at Woodson. I got spooked on the top-out myself.
By AJ
Oct 29, 2014

A super classic finger jamming puzzle. The height and landing are reasonable but your most solid jam at the crux might be your right toe... so take care not to fall awkwardly. FA was Bachar.

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