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California Girls (aka Muffin Top) 
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Snap on Demand 

California Girls (aka Muffin Top) 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller, 1997, First lead: Paul Borne & Al Swanson, 2010
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Dec 28, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The new J-Tree West guide gives this route two stars but I can't see why since the rock sucks. Basically the route climbs a thin slab that has numerous loose and hollow flakes for holds that might break off at any moment. I guess its worth doing if you already have a rope up, but maybe not.


This route is located between Loose Lady and Puss N' Boots.


9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

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By Muff
Jun 28, 2011

Very loose exfoliating rock. Managed to onsight this route but also managed to break some holds off while doing it. I am not really sure if it meets up to the 11b grade but definitely a 10+/11-. My partner managed to pull off a hand sized thin flake on this thing so it might be wise to wear a helmet as the belayer. Not that great of a route in my opinion but worth it if you're already there.

Maybe in time as this thing sees more traffic it will clean up and lose some of those loose holds.

By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I'll second the loose flakes comment. Would have been better left as a toprope, its kind of a squeeze job as a lead.

By Ben H
Feb 18, 2012

Agree with Nick. Sort of squeeze job, and its bolt line is so close to Puss N Boots near the crux of Puss N Boots.

Also feels much easier than PnB, but is similarly rated.

By T. Stark
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 28, 2012

I liked this climb, lots of little edges. Maybe some stuff has broken off but it felt casual. Went straight up on the runout from the ninth bolt, easier but sketch for sure.

By Adam Stackhouse
Nov 18, 2012

aka Muffin Top

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jan 30, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

TR'd it after Loose Lady. I only noticed a few loose holds, so it must be cleaning up. That being said, it definitely felt 5.11- to me so perhaps some holds have vanished.