Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest 
A Bridge Too Far 
Astro Glide 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Harkness variation 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

California Dreaming 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 1989 - F. Sanders & L. Kirk
Page Views: 1,428
Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 10, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


CALIFORNIA DREAMING (aka Kernal Sandfly) is a sweet route. A little easy face climbing to get started, and then it's a full-on stem-fest for most of the pitch. Although no single move approaches .11b in difficulty, the grade takes the "Tower enduro factor" into account (not a long pitch by Tower standards, but the calves will probly be talking by the time it's over). Interesting features on the right wall and a good rest at 2/3 height help keep the difficulties manageable.


Located just right of the NW buttress- same area as CAROL'S CRACK and ONE-WAY SUNSET (the latter makes a great approach pitch, since CALIFORNIA DREAMING doesn't start from the ground. One could also climb BUSTER CATTLEFIELD instead.) From the belay at the end of p.1 of ONE-WAY SUNSET, look up and left into the steep, right-facing dihedral.


Protection is very good. Shortly after leaving the belay a yellow alien gets you to the first of six well-placed bolts, after which you'll need a few odd pieces to see you to the chains (stoppers & smallish to medium cams).

Comments on California Dreaming Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wally
From: Denver
Aug 25, 2011

This is a great line. The description here is accurate. We approached from the first pitch anchors of One Way Sunset.