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California Dreaming 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 1989 - F. Sanders & L. Kirk
Page Views: 1,803
Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


CALIFORNIA DREAMING (aka Kernal Sandfly) is a sweet route. A little easy face climbing to get started, and then it's a full-on stem-fest for most of the pitch. Although no single move approaches .11b in difficulty, the grade takes the "Tower enduro factor" into account (not a long pitch by Tower standards, but the calves will probly be talking by the time it's over). Interesting features on the right wall and a good rest at 2/3 height help keep the difficulties manageable.


Located just right of the NW buttress- same area as CAROL'S CRACK and ONE-WAY SUNSET (the latter makes a great approach pitch, since CALIFORNIA DREAMING doesn't start from the ground. One could also climb BUSTER CATTLEFIELD instead.) From the belay at the end of p.1 of ONE-WAY SUNSET, look up and left into the steep, right-facing dihedral.


Protection is very good. Shortly after leaving the belay a yellow alien gets you to the first of six well-placed bolts, after which you'll need a few odd pieces to see you to the chains (stoppers & smallish to medium cams).

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By Wally
From: Denver
Aug 25, 2011

This is a great line. The description here is accurate. We approached from the first pitch anchors of One Way Sunset.

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