California Dreaming  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  1989 - F. Sanders & L. Kirk Submitted By:  nolteboy on Sep 10, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

CALIFORNIA DREAMING (aka Kernal Sandfly) is one sweet route. A little easy face climbing to get started, and then it's a full-on stem-fest for most of the pitch. Although no single move approaches .11b in difficulty, the grade takes the "Tower enduro factor" into account (not a long pitch by Tower standards, but the calves will probly be talking by the time it's over). Interesting features on the right wall and a good rest at 2/3 height help keep the difficulties manageable.

Location 

Located just right of the NW buttress- same area as CAROL'S CRACK and ONE-WAY SUNSET (the latter makes a great approach pitch, since CALIFORNIA DREAMING doesn't start from the ground. One could also climb BUSTER CATTLEFIELD instead.) From the belay at the end of p.1 of ONE-WAY SUNSET, look up and left into the steep, right-facing dihedral.

Protection 

Protection is very good. Shortly after leaving the belay a yellow alien gets you to the first of six well-placed bolts, after which you'll need a few odd pieces to see you to the chains (stoppers & smallish to medium cams).