Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
North Face & Northwest Corner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Dreaming T,S 
Call Evita 911 T 
Doldrums T 
Fourplay T 
Friend of the Devil 
Klondike T,S 
Leaping Lizards T 
McCarthy's North Face T 
Mystic and the Mulchers T 
Psychic Turbulance T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Spiney Norman T 
Whine and Bruises T 

California Dreaming 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Frank Sanders
Page Views: 1,950
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Sep 18, 2005  with updates from khoa

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Do the amazing first pitch of One Way Sunset to get warmed up. From the bolted anchor traverse up and left into the beautiful right facing dihedral. After about 10 feet you can clip the first of six bolts. The next 60 feet is unrelenting stemming with no real hand holds or good rests. The bolts are very well placed and the falls would not be too bad. After the sixth bolt you can get a good rest out to the right on a nice little ledge. The upper part of the pitch is easier and protects with gear. Rappel from bolts back to the One Way Sunset anchor. We made it easy with a single 70m rope.


6 bolts protect the sustained crux section. You will also need RPs, nuts, and cams for the upper section. Mostly small cams up to a #1 Camalot should do.

Comments on California Dreaming Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jul 2, 2006

This climb is also known as "Kernal Sandfly" and is listed under that name in the Dingus McGee poor persons guides.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!