California Crack 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006 |
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Leading California Crack, with Morgan. Photo by J...
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Description Just right of "Mikado", Move up, then left under a roof. Then straight up.
Protection Pro to 2.5".
BETA PHOTO: "California Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
| BETA PHOTO: Olivia pointing out the California Crack
| California Crack
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| Comments on California Crack |
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By Josh Hibbard From: Los Angeles Area, CA Mar 26, 2007
| A very fun climb. This climb has a fun little roof about 15-20 feet off the floor. |
By Trad Nanny Dec 22, 2012
| Red C3 perfect for the crux. |
By Richard Shore Dec 29, 2012
| Gets an "R" rating in the Miramontes guide, but I don't think it is warranted. You can pre-protect the start by scrambling up into the "cave" and threading a 4' sling through a nice hole under the roof. An amazing knee-bar (no hands rest) takes the bite out of the crux and allows for easy gear placement. |
By Sean From: Oak Park, CA Feb 18, 2013
| Going with just that first sling and placing next at the knee bar would be runout. Danger not so much from decking but from the possible big penji fall smacking leader rightward back against the side of the cave, as one local did a long while ago and broke his back (full recovery). An "inside out" small hex (or big stopper) instead for the first pro at mentioned spot could be placed quicker on the go, without pre-placing. |
By verticalbound Apr 15, 2013
| tons of fun moves, if youve got good foot work and wear pants i felt like there were so many places you could half hold and place a piece in the roof, tons of possibilities get creative. knee moves make it not to pumpy. |
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