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California 12a
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California 12a S 

California 12a 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,862
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Michael DeWitt working on California 5.12a.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun roof problem leads to a steep, awkward crack (Yosemite climbers should have no problem with this one).

Protection 

7 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Location 

Due east of the Magic Bus but more directly approached from the Rescue Wall.


Photos of California 12a Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric at the anchors of California 5.12
Eric at the anchors of California 5.12
Rock Climbing Photo: Corinne Lee enjoying the view while lowering from ...
Corinne Lee enjoying the view while lowering from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Califonia 12a
Califonia 12a
Rock Climbing Photo: me working through the fun series of heel-hooks in...
me working through the fun series of heel-hooks in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Califonia 12a
Califonia 12a

Comments on California 12a Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 29, 2010

On 5/14/10 The LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced the 4th protection bolt on the route. The bolt was moved about 1' higher due to rock quality concerns. The anchor bolts were also replaced and mussy hooks were added. All bolts replaced are 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece bolts. The first bolt was not replaced (we could not safely do it without several crash pads), so bring a stick clip for this route- the second bolt (now the 1st) is roughly 15' up.
By Jonathan Guy
From: Bay Area, CA
Jan 14, 2012

Super fun route. Thanks, John, for the re-bolting effort.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Oct 28, 2015

The anchor has been moved higher to the no-hands rest and true finish to the route. Now the old anchor has become the last pro bolt and thus the climb has a total of 7 pro bolts leading to an anchor equipped with mussy hooks.

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