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Calder's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Calder Stratford
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 17, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: 1 Calder's Route 5.8

Description 

Short climb on interesting limestone with vertical striations. Start on thin crimps to the first bolt, then fairly straightforward to the second bolt (but don’t fall before clipping the second).

The third clip is awkward on slopers and sidepulls, and the sequence after the third bolt is not obvious. I found myself wondering “How in the world am I going to get from here to the chains? This has to be harder than 5.8” Once I figured it out, I thought, “Oh.”

Location 

Opposite the main Zoo wall, left of the mine entrance.

Protection 

3 bolts to chains


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 14, 2008

I had to take on this route when I did it 4 years ago. I nearly dislocated my shoulder trying to climb the thing, did some moves that felt like 5.10, and eventually made it to the chains. Weird. I still need to go back and get the redpoint, I guess...
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 13, 2009

I was doing a personal goal of 30 routes in a day on my 30th birthday (The 30 at 30 challenge). It originally was supposed to be 30 routes of 5.10 or over but after my belayer ditched me for about 2 hours to take a dump (push harder!) I lost my groove and had to settle for routes under 5.10. I added this route to my list when I needed another quickie and I was getting tired. BIG MISTAKE! this route is included in the: "not really 5.8" group of routes so infamous in R.C. I felt like I was going to die when I felt a huge pump flow into my arms while I tried to solve the sequence...be ready for a MUCH harder route than you think.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Jul 2, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My only complaint was that it wasn't longer. There is a huge no hands rest before one tenuous move. Fun while it lasted.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Aug 1, 2009

After having my foot slip off of what looked like a good hold, and getting pumped looking for the way up, I pulled a mantle on the right and made it up. I feel like I went off route and want to get back to it. And I'm taking a toothbrush next time.
By Canyon Copa
May 30, 2012

Don't bring your first-timers here. The moves take some thinking and technique that will kick their butts. There's also a route that starts just to the right and goes way up to the right that's probably a 9 or so. Not really worth it.