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Calculus Crack 

5.8 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966
Season: summer
Submitted By: sibylle on Jul 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Tristan following pitch 2 of Calculus Crack

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Description 

From Baseline Ledge, head left to a bolted belay beneath cracks.
Pitch 1. Climb up crack and step left to belay.
P. 2. follow the crack and groove.
3. climb up and right on easy terrain.


Location 

This climb starts on Baseline Ledge on the north Buttress of the Apron.


Protection 

Gear belays, nuts and cams, runners for the climbing to Baseline Ledge.



Photos of Calculus Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Tristan folowing pitch 1 of Calculus Crack.

Tristan folowing pitch 1 of Calculus Crack.

Pitch 2 of Calculus Crack

Pitch 2 of Calculus Crack

Look at that awesome splitter

Look at that awesome splitter

Calculus Crack. <br /> <br />Patty Black in the thick of it.  11 May 2007

Calculus Crack.

Patty Black in the thick of it. ...



Comments on Calculus Crack Add Comment
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By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.8-

Very well protected.

By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.8

Really fun climbing. Don't know where the PG13 rating could possibly be warranted. Even the upper, 5.0 slab had a handcrack option.

I pitched this out as follows (after getting to Baseline Ledge, which is one or two pitches of 5.7 scramble but fun).

P1: Romped up the parallel cracks (5.6), then step left to a finger-sized crack for gear belay.

P2: Climbed the finger crack to some other harder moves as the crack slowly widens to thin-hands. (5.8, then easier again.) Angle kicks back and there's a great place for a thin-hand to hand gear belay on a low-angle ramp on a left-facing corner. Good place to stay in the shade.

P3: Easy climbing again, rings to hands to a bolted belay off right. (5.7, but mostly easy.)

P4: 5.0 walk with a fun hand crack to the trees.

Tried to link the last two pitches with a 70m but came up short and downclimbed the crack. Kevin McClane pitched this out in 3 pitches in his guide, is it possible to go straight from the finger-crack to the bolted anchor with or without a 70m?

By EMT
Aug 12, 2012

From P 3 belay (little ledge) through the awesome fingers/hands long moderate section you can stretch a 60m to a nice comfy ledge, but save a #1 & 2 C4 for the belay.

Got lost on 2nd jungleering pitch but just keept going up and to the left.

By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Aug 16, 2012

Well protected, not PG13. If you notice bad wind in the parking lot you will be in for an adventure on this route. After climbing a very windy 190 feet of 5.6 wide crack you step left into an amazing finger crack that is truly on the edge of the apron. The wind RIPS through this section of the climb pulling helmets off, chalk bags sideways, the rope, and of course you. That being said, it's quite the windy adventure if you get it on a day like that!

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.8

Mega classic for the grade. Solid jams the whole way and fun fun fun.