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Calanque d'En Vau

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American Spur 
La Saphir 
Petite Aiguille 

Calanque d'En Vau Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.20246, 5.49794 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,480
Administrators: Euan Cameron, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Gini Kramer on Nov 6, 2013
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Looking down on En Vau from the top of "Saphi...


En Vau is probably the jewel of the Calanques de Marseille. The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. Because En Vau is very popular, it is best avoided on weekends. The rock can be polished because folks have been climbing there for over 100 years. Route in En Vau are bolted, but, unlike other areas in the Calanques where the bolts seem to be about 3 feet apart, the bolting can be rather runout. So it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams.

Getting There 

There are two approaches to En Vau and both require a bit of hiking. The first option is to park at the big parking area at the Col de Gardiole (off route D559, which runs between Cassis and Marseille) and follow the red/white trail, about a 40-minute walk. The other is to park at Port Miou and take the GR98-51 trail. This involves less distance but more elevation gain/loss (according to one local map the hike to En Vau is about 1 hr, 40 minutes).

Climbing Season

For the France area.

Weather station 22.1 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Calanque d'En Vau

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Calanque d'En Vau:
Saphir   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 5 pitches, 400'   La Saphir
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Calanque d'En Vau

Featured Route For Calanque d'En Vau
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Calanque

Super Calanque 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13  Europe : France : ... : American Spur
P1 starts with easy face climbing up to a 15 foot polished crack and chimney. Belay from a ledge at the top of the chimney. 5.9 (40 meters) P2 moves right onto a small dihedral and then right again across the face. Belay from obvious ledge. 5.6 (25 meters) P3 two options, you can either move up the crack directly above the belay or you can head out to right onto the face where a second slightly easier crack is available. Belay from obvious ledge. 5.8 (25 meters) P4 two options, you can either go...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Calanque d'En Vau Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: En Vau from the top of La Saphir
BETA PHOTO: En Vau from the top of La Saphir
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the Calanques d'En Vau on a gloomy day. ...
A view of the Calanques d'En Vau on a gloomy day. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Calanque En Vau beach.
Calanque En Vau beach.
Rock Climbing Photo: En Vau from low on La Saphir
En Vau from low on La Saphir

Comments on Calanque d'En Vau Add Comment
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By Evan Oro
From: New Mexico
Nov 12, 2015
Climbed here during a trip to France. It is one of the most beautiful climbing areas I've been to. The approach was a little tricky as we got lost a few time, but found it without to much difficulty. You can climb in the morning and late afternoon and avoid the mid day heat by swimming at the beach or crush all day on some of the multi pitch climbs.

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