An out of the way, locals, cala (cove) with early morning shade. This crag is right on the playa with a couple of routes over the water. The rock here is clean and pocketed with about 60 bolted routes. Most of the routes are between 5.9-5.11 and 30'-60' in height.
Getting There
On the east coast, south of Porto Cristo and north of Calas de Mallorca. Look for the big dry river bed (full of olive trees) and jump the fence using the built in ladder. Follow the track along the old stone wall, about 20 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cala Magraner:
Climb up to the little "popcorn tufa" but keep it on your right. The little roof at the top has great pockets and a nice little handlebar. Quality....[more]Browse More Classics in International
I am not sure what Chris is talking about when he said he lived on the beach for 2 days. I went there to camp and there are no camping signs clearly stated on the beach. I would recommend camping at Cala Barques. On another note the climbing here is great and you have a lot of routes to choose from. There is not much shade and really no shade on the walls so if its hot out I would climb somewhere else.
GPS coordinates for one of the parking areas (about 200 m south of the trail): 39.495325, 3.266255
This is absolutely not "an out of the way, locals, cala (cove)." Perhaps this was true back on '09, but when we climbed there last week, there were American, British, and German climbers, along with a handful of hikers/bikers. It wasn't overcrowded, but had no semblance of an off-the-beaten-path feel. In fact, the next day we counted 15 cars in the parking areas. The rock and setting are wonderful, which explains why this crag is so popular!
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