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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Middle Earth T 
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Wonderland T 
Yenta TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Mcarthy & Hans Kraus
Season: whatever you can take
Page Views: 3,474
Submitted By: Spiro on Aug 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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About 3/4 up the first pitch.

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Start on some easy ground and climb a section of wide crack. Trend left, with some face moves, towards a shallow ledge on top of a large block. From there, trend back right towards a vertical crack and right-facing corner. More fun moves following the corner, and up and leftward to the chains. Very fun climb for the 5.7 leader. Don't be fooled by the name!

Roger Benton describes the pitches above:
Pitch 2: From small ledge left of the chains, head up and diagonal right, aiming towards the top of a good-size pine tree at the horizon. Basically find the obvious "clean" path through the lichen. It's easy climbing, but watch for loose/creaky flakes. Williams' guide says 80ft but I thought it was more like 50. There is a tree with slings and rings but the tat is ancient and crusty ... don't use it. If you've gone this far, the bolts over Arrow are close enough. 5.3 at best, but clean, enjoyable climbing.

Pitch 3: More easy but yet dirtier climbing, about 30-40 ft to the top. Lots of dirty, grassy ledges; be careful not to drop junk down on your partner. 5.2. It's tempting to link these two pitches, but that would have the rope running over dirty pebbly ledges, dropping junk all over everything. We walked climbers' right through waist-high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow.


It is left of Never Never Land and starts on a ledge about 10 feet up. I climbed the face to get to the ledge. Look for the large right-facing flakes and corner high up.


Standard rack. One 60m comes just short of reaching the ground (the route used to start from the tree that used to be on the ledge) from the first set of anchors - be careful.

Photos of Cakewalk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking ahead
looking ahead
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Cakewalk
BETA PHOTO: Start of Cakewalk

Comments on Cakewalk Add Comment
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By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Nov 23, 2009

Fun route, a good mix of stuff!
Jun 4, 2010

The face climbing in the first third of the route can stay seepy late into the spring, and after a rain. It's fairly obvious from the ground.
By Olivier
Sep 26, 2010

Did not find the pin, a bit run out in the middle but great variety climb, quite even for the grade.
By Goran Lynch
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 27, 2010

I led Cakewalk sometime earlier this summer and chuckled at the cool piton (it was driven vertically downward behind a flake), but as of 9/26/10 the pin is no longer there. It didn't seem to be particularly trustworthy and there is decent gear around.

Cakewalk is my favorite .7 at the gunks (at least, that I've done): sustained, varied, and interesting throughout!
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 23, 2011

It's an okay climb if you're in the area. Seems to stay wet long after surrounding climbs have dried. Runout on the face climbing. small master cams are helpful.
By rogerbenton
Jul 8, 2012

pitch one was a fun lead. we did the final easy pitches to the top because i wanted my partner to see the top of the cliff. Here's my description of them:

(text moved) We walked climbers' right through waist high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow, and were rewarded with the sweet, insidious itch of chiggers the next night. Awesome.

Thanks, Roger, I moved your description of the upper pitches to the route description! JSH
By Kurtz
Aug 23, 2013

There are a bunch of trees that make it hard to spot the start. Look for a distinctive, large dead tree.
By Mrkb3
Nov 3, 2015

This is an exciting lead that takes some really fun and creative gear. Would be a classic if not for the big scary loose rock around the upper flakes and ledges. The upper pitches looked really dirty to me. You can lower after P1 with a 70m.

The boulder problem up to the starting ledge is a nice way to start this. Fun V0+/V1 I think.

Route-finding beta
It's easy to go up the wrong route and get yourself in trouble (~9-10 land) so when at the ledge above the tree, avoid the thin seam above the tree and go about 10 feet left to another vertical seam that won't really take gear. Now go up aiming towards a small right facing corner. The rest is obvious.

Gear beta
Doubles in 2-3" cams.

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