|Some areas require a guide.|
A group of us were climbing this area a few weeks ago and while we were running laps up Alice in Banana Land just to the right, this climb kept spitting climbers off the start. While there is a line of small holds directly underneath the first bolt, most of us ended up starting in the initial crack of Banana Patch and then traversing over a move at the top of the crack to reach the first bolt. Once the first bolt is reached the climbing becomes pretty straight-forward, following some decent huecos and face-holds up the nearly vertical wall.
This route provides a direct start for the Cakewalk, leading almost directly up to the P1 belay ledge.
The first bolt is ~15ft and past the crux moves. 5 or so more bolts gain the anchors/belay ledge. The Banana Patch start can be protected with small wires/cams, otherwise be ready to leap down and tangle with brush. The top belay ledge has two bolts, and allows for top-roping the route with a 60m rope.
From: El Paso, TX
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Fun route!
From: Central California
Dec 6, 2013
fun indeed. pretty sustained 5.8 & 5.9. can finish on cakewalk for another 5.7 pitch with med-large cams (#2-#4s) or hexes. scramble up and right after the 2P traverse belay. A 60m barely makes it but an option is to lead P1 of CWDirect to the 2nd bolted anchor that is 40 ft. up past the 1st.