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Routes in Area 51 (CLOSED)
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[Redacted] S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brayack-Howk Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Can't touch this S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Crossing the Line S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dan and Bill's (Not So) Excellent Adventure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drive-in Porn Theatre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Moon Arete V7 7A+ |
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Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hammer Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Hueco not Waco T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Instant Gratification S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mother's Milk in a Cup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Saidar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skin Job S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jim Woodruff |
| Page Views: | 3,176 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on May 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Location
Climbs the center of the main cave at Area 51. Look for the diagonal crack at the start and the splitter crack on the finishing headwall. Fully equipped with chain draws.
Description
You'll understand where this route gets its name from when you lower from the chains, panting and covered with scrapes from head to toe. Essentially a crack climb, this route has been done on gear, and would be quite manageable to lead on gear if it weren't for the first 4 bolts of face and roof climbing.
The Williams guidebook recommends stick clipping the second bolt. Begin on some vertical terrain, climbing past a diagonal crack to a large jug. Pump out the roof on some good flakes and get ready for the technical crux at the fourth bolt. Make your way up in a chimney for a no hands rest. Exit the chimney with some 3D moves, being sure to not get wrapped up in the rope. If you're not fully bewildered at this point the final move to a jug at the sixth bolt will definitely get you a bit confused.
At the sixth bolt you reach the offwidth crack. The rock turns bleached white and the remaining bolts are widely spaced. The higher you climb the thinner the crack becomes, tapering all the way down to thin hands. Good rests and clipping stances keep the crack from getting too pumpy. The crack section is roughly 11a.
A healthy dose of kneebaring reduces the difficulty of this pitch. Not a good pick for a rainy day since the crack above gets soaked.
The Williams guidebook recommends stick clipping the second bolt. Begin on some vertical terrain, climbing past a diagonal crack to a large jug. Pump out the roof on some good flakes and get ready for the technical crux at the fourth bolt. Make your way up in a chimney for a no hands rest. Exit the chimney with some 3D moves, being sure to not get wrapped up in the rope. If you're not fully bewildered at this point the final move to a jug at the sixth bolt will definitely get you a bit confused.
At the sixth bolt you reach the offwidth crack. The rock turns bleached white and the remaining bolts are widely spaced. The higher you climb the thinner the crack becomes, tapering all the way down to thin hands. Good rests and clipping stances keep the crack from getting too pumpy. The crack section is roughly 11a.
A healthy dose of kneebaring reduces the difficulty of this pitch. Not a good pick for a rainy day since the crack above gets soaked.
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