Caffeine Free  5.10c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  ScottH on Mar 8, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Caffeine free!

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>> For 2012 closure info, see smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/eagle-closure-2>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Caffeine Free is the leftmost of the bolted routes on the river face of the West ship, following a thin seam and some pockets to an anchor below Solar. Caffeine Free can be easily recognized because there are two bolts at the first stance. One is a bad spinner.

Climb past the first bolts connceting pockets, huecos, and edges. You will be moving back and forth between the seam and features to the side as you ascend. Launch into the crux off an undercling in a giant hueco and work your way up and back right follow small edges to a good rest. Pay attention to your feet. After these moves, the difficulty eases, but remains interesting 5.10 to the anchor. There are some loose blocks just below the anchor-- don't knock them down on your belayer.

Protection 

Bolts. The first bolt may look high and the climbing tricky, but the moves to get there are quite reasonable-- look for a subtle finger pocket that is easy to miss.