Cafe au Lait 5.6
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Bryan just after exiting the chimney.
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Description This one surprised me because the bottom of the route looks chossy and is a little loose in places but the climbing is super cool moderate chimney climbing and the rock gets better as you keep climbing. It's also a bit longer than it looks. Climb the chimney clipping bolts on the left past some bad rock to a good stance continue up the chimney as the rock gets better clip bolts on the right. Many options for beta i ended up pulling a corkscrew move which is always fun. After the chimney ends climb moderate rock to the chains on the left.
Location Chimney just right of Juan Valdez (5.10b).
Protection 7 bolts to anchor. Long draws on last 2 bolts help.
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Jun 13, 2009 rating: 5.6
| I belayed a friend on this and he did the corkscrew aswell looks sweet! |
By Jake D. From: Northeast Dec 17, 2009
| climbing it the whole way on the right side is also fun and adds maybe a half grade if you're looking for a variation. |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 18, 2009
| So Jake, would that make it a 5.6b, or would it be a 5.6c? |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 18, 2009
| 5.6b/c :) |
By James Otey From: NH Dec 23, 2009
| I don't know lee, as with so many of the bouldery routes at rumney, its pretty height dependent. I'd say 5.6b if your above 6', 5.6c if your short. |
By N Nelsen From: Plymouth Jun 10, 2010
| This is a great climb if you like chimneys. I've always ended up stemming facing out and have to rotate back to climb onto the ledge (I don't know if this is the "corkscrew move" that Matt mentioned.) |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Sep 14, 2010
| Cool chimney moves and a bit longer than I expected. |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Sep 14, 2010
| This is an all right route, but you guys giving it 3 stars? You need to get around more. 3 stars is a great route, like Waimea. Giving it 3 stars only leaves 1 more to distinguish routes like Masterpiece, Centerpiece and China Beach from it. I liked it, but this thing deserves 1 star, maybe 2, if you were in a really good mood when you did it. I am not dissing the route, just would like the star ratings to have some accuracy relative to each other. |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Sep 14, 2010 rating: 5.6
| Personally I think it is 3 stars for a 5.6. When I give route a rating it is for routes at the grade not compared to routes 4 or more grades harder. This is just my personally way of doing it but I think many other people do it this way too :) So comparing it to Waimea is not a comparison I would like to take on but comparing it to False Modesty in the Meadows it is much better therefor giving it 3 stars instead of 2 :) IMO |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Sep 15, 2010
| Well i see where you are both coming from but i must say it is a system based on opinion so we have to deal with what others think of the route and put in our 2 cents... it is nice that you can see what each person graded the climb so you can be like "oh Lee gave it 4 stars and Jay gave it 1 so it must be somewhere in between " haha... i always liked that Repentance (as a rock climb) got 4 stars on a 3 star scale in Ed Websters Cathedral guide... seeing as it is a nasty scary route... |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Mar 27, 2011 rating: 5.6
| Climbed this thing again today! I enjoy it so much every time. There was some ice on the opening part which made it more difficult, but it is just very enjoyable easy climbing. :) |
By Jcomeau From: Hopkinton, MA Jun 13, 2011
| Very fun climbing through the chimney |
By Ryan Barber From: Rumney, NH May 16, 2012
| Super technical fun for beginners. |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Aug 12, 2012 rating: 5.6
| I have been doing a lot of 'green-pointing' lately (sport routes on trad gear), and I must say this route protects fairly well on gear. The first 15 feet really only has one place for natural pro but from the 15 foot point and above it protects very well. |
By The Fat Kid Sep 17, 2012
| Be careful: We found and "x'd" a few loose holds; a helmet would be a wise option. |
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