Caesarian West Face 5.12c
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| Type: | TR |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | Pete Cleveland, TR, Tommy Deuchler first lead |
| Submitted By: | Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 21, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Caesarian West Face (11) and the Caesarian Tow...
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Description The Caesarian West Face sits at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks formation. It is a tricky climb split into three sections. The lower section is climbed using the obvious horizontal crack. Move through the center section past the overhang using small face holds. Pull a hard mantle on the ledge to begin the last section. Climb the last section using the fingertip crack to the top.
Protection Top Rope
BETA PHOTO: The West Face of the Caesarian Tower
| Christina learns to swear
| BETA PHOTO: Kelsen winding up for the dead point.
| BETA PHOTO: Good view of the start.
| BETA PHOTO: Remo sticking the dead point.
| Remo on lower section.
| Rhoads moving towards the crux.
| Rhoads after sticking the crux.
| Rhoads on the last moves.
| Rhoads very happy to be done with the lower sectio...
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| Comments on Caesarian West Face |
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By Anonymous Mar 22, 2002
| f.f.a. : rich bechler ,top rope |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 22, 2005 rating: 5.12b
| what is the history of this route? who put the bolts in up higher? has any one led it? i seem to remember it being very difficult. this is a killer line_ |
By rich bechler Mar 23, 2005
| I am listed as doing the ffa of this route,but in fact I did the 3rd.Pete did the 1st and tom did the 2nd.Of course if you talk to Tom he did the first and if you talk to Pete he did the first. |
By rich bechler Mar 23, 2005
| The bolts where placed by the CMC to overcome their lack of free climbing skills.There is also a tower above the Caesarian that has a line of bolts up a overhanging face that we tried in vain to free climb. This may be a challenge for the new generation of ne'er-do-wells. |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 23, 2005 rating: 5.12b
| rich,thanks fer the update.does that mean i got the "coveted" 4th ascent? |
By Tom Hanson Sep 4, 2008
| I tr'ed this line circa 1980? Does this mean I have the coveted 5th ascent? |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Sep 7, 2008 rating: 5.12 PG13
| Tried to lead it with great struggle and some hangs in 1992 or so. Bloody fingers at the very top from getting sloppy. Yuck. I believe I recall the fixed hardware being sketchy. |
By Trad Nanny Jul 2, 2009 rating: 5.12c
| Is the upper tower after the ledge with the bolts part of CWF? "Using the finger tip crack to the top" does that mean going straight up the bolt line? According to Sven's description it seemed like after the rest ledge (if the second tower is part of this climb) you should start on the right obvious crack and then traverse over left to the opposite corner to finish. This seemed like the easiest way to do it albeit not the most direct. Straight up the bolt line seemed way over 12c. |
By Trad Nanny Oct 6, 2009 rating: 5.12c
| We determined that, yes, the upper wall is part of the whole route. It's a bit weird to pull more of a slab face to a huge ledge, then pull an overhanging face on jugs but hey, your at Devils Lake, so sack up. The bottom is the meat with moves (if you can pull them) that give a sense of floating up the face because of the dire nature of the feet. Chalk and scrubbing is a must. Short people might complain that the dead point is reachy (like Remo did) but with the proper technique even the vertically challenged can easily stick it. It's a matter of finesse. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Oct 19, 2009 rating: 5.12c
| Excellent route! |
By Trad Nanny Oct 19, 2009 rating: 5.12c
| Yea, balancy moves with lots of core tension and a dead point that has to be done just right to avoid disappointment. I was overjoyed with just a TR ascent. Remo threw a wobbler ("I HATE THIS CLIMB! FUCK!") after biffing three times in a row, then I made him take a rest and he sent next go, professing his undying love for the climb afterwards. The guy is a total nut. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Sep 17, 2010 rating: 5.12c
| Tom, go back to Railroad Tracks and see "The Dick". |
By Mark Kauz From: Madison, WI Jan 5, 2011
| Just talked to Pete Cleveland. He belayed Tommy Deuchler on this on lead he said. Not sure the date. |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Jan 6, 2011 rating: 5.12b
| cool, first I have heard of this.sure would be great to know what year. Dave Groth might know. peace etc ss |
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