The Caesarian West Face sits at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks formation. It is a tricky climb split into three sections. The lower section is climbed using the obvious horizontal crack. Move through the center section past the overhang using small face holds. Pull a hard mantle on the ledge to begin the last section. Climb the last section using the fingertip crack to the top.
The bolts where placed by the CMC to overcome their lack of free climbing skills.There is also a tower above the Caesarian that has a line of bolts up a overhanging face that we tried in vain to free climb. This may be a challenge for the new generation of ne'er-do-wells.
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 23, 2005 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
rich,thanks fer the update.does that mean i got the "coveted" 4th ascent?
I tr'ed this line circa 1980? Does this mean I have the coveted 5th ascent?
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Sep 7, 2008 rating: 5.127b+27VIII+26E6 6b PG13
Tried to lead it with great struggle and some hangs in 1992 or so. Bloody fingers at the very top from getting sloppy. Yuck. I believe I recall the fixed hardware being sketchy.
By Tradoholic Jul 2, 2009 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
Is the upper tower after the ledge with the bolts part of CWF? "Using the finger tip crack to the top" does that mean going straight up the bolt line? According to Sven's description it seemed like after the rest ledge (if the second tower is part of this climb) you should start on the right obvious crack and then traverse over left to the opposite corner to finish. This seemed like the easiest way to do it albeit not the most direct. Straight up the bolt line seemed way over 12c.
By Tradoholic Oct 6, 2009 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
We determined that, yes, the upper wall is part of the whole route. It's a bit weird to pull more of a slab face to a huge ledge, then pull an overhanging face on jugs but hey, your at Devils Lake, so sack up.
The bottom is the meat with moves (if you can pull them) that give a sense of floating up the face because of the dire nature of the feet. Chalk and scrubbing is a must.
Short people might complain that the dead point is reachy (like Remo did) but with the proper technique even the vertically challenged can easily stick it. It's a matter of finesse.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Oct 19, 2009 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
By Tradoholic Oct 19, 2009 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
Yea, balancy moves with lots of core tension and a dead point that has to be done just right to avoid disappointment. I was overjoyed with just a TR ascent.
Remo threw a wobbler ("I HATE THIS CLIMB! FUCK!") after biffing three times in a row, then I made him take a rest and he sent next go, professing his undying love for the climb afterwards. The guy is a total nut.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Sep 17, 2010 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
Tom, go back to Railroad Tracks and see "The Dick".