Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Rad Cliff
Mammut Zephir

$99.95 29% off

$69.99

at Moosejaw

140    more...
Sugoi RPM Skirt - Women's

$69.99 20% off

$55.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Patagonia Men's Bivy Down Jacket

$249.00 50% off

$124.50

at Patagonia

43    more...
Blackwing Climbing Shoes - Women's-5.5

$164.95 40% off

$98.97

at CampSaver

3    more...
Jetboil Companion Cup - 1 Liter

$54.99 25% off

$41.24

at AlsSports

   more...
Metolius Monster 9.2mm Dry Rope- 100m

$364.95 20% off

$291.96

at Backcountry

5    more...
Patagonia Men's Slopestyle Hoody

$139.00 50% off

$69.50

at Patagonia

76    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam 
Basilisk Fang 
Cadillac Crack 
Chamber of Secrets, The 
Dark Arts 
Dementor, The 
Diagon Alley 
Falling Rein 
Fright of the Phoenix, The 
Get Rad 
Moaning Myrtle 
Rita Skeeter 

Cadillac Crack 

5.9

   
4,054 page views
Good page?   

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Joe Herbst & Randal Grandstaff
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Nov 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

George Urioste climbs past the crux overhang on th...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

At the very base of the Whiskey Peak descent gully, on the south side, is a clean offwidth crack in a right-facing dihedral. Climb the offwidth past a small overhang to an alcove, then chimney and jam a handcrack to a large ledge. Rappel with 2 ropes.

Historical note by Larry DeAngelo: I was researching history for Red Rock Odyssey at the time of Randal Grandstaff's death in 2002. His widow, Laura, graciously allowed me to sift through an entire trunk of slides and photographs that Randal had taken. Among them was a picture of the the striking Cadillac Crack that had been taken in January, 1975. At the time, Randal was at the beginning of what was to become an illustrious climbing career under the tutelage of local master Joe Herbst. In light of Joe and Randal's friendship, and Joe's affinity for wide cracks, it is inconceivable to me that they did not climb this route. The name was given by me, inspired by Randal's Chrysler Crack (this one is a nicer ride!).


Protection 

Bring the usual rack, plus some large stuff in the six-inch range. Update: recently (2006) a bolt has appeared to protect the crux section of the crack, so really large gear is not actually needed.



Photos of Cadillac Crack Slideshow Add Photo
AJ starting up Cadillac Crack.

AJ starting up Cadillac Crack.

AJ higher up on Cadillac Crack.

AJ higher up on Cadillac Crack.

AJ nearing the top of Cadillac Crack.

AJ nearing the top of Cadillac Crack.

AJ with perfect form cruises the 5.9 crux of Cadillac Crack.  One must question what that bolt is doing there next to that nice crack.

AJ with perfect form cruises the 5.9 crux of Cadil...


Comments on Cadillac Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.9

Agreed that no big gear is needed with the bolt in place. I had nothing bigger than a #4, and that worked. Could bring a #6 if the bolt is not enough.