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Cadillac Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst & Randal Grandstaff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,986
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Nov 1, 2002

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George Urioste climbs past the crux overhang on th...

Description 

At the very base of the Whiskey Peak descent gully, on the south side, is a clean offwidth crack in a right-facing dihedral. Climb the offwidth past a small overhang to an alcove, then chimney and jam a handcrack to a large ledge. Rappel with 2 ropes.

Historical note by Larry DeAngelo: I was researching history for Red Rock Odyssey at the time of Randal Grandstaff's death in 2002. His widow, Laura, graciously allowed me to sift through an entire trunk of slides and photographs that Randal had taken. Among them was a picture of the the striking Cadillac Crack that had been taken in January, 1975. At the time, Randal was at the beginning of what was to become an illustrious climbing career under the tutelage of local master Joe Herbst. In light of Joe and Randal's friendship, and Joe's affinity for wide cracks, it is inconceivable to me that they did not climb this route. The name was given by me, inspired by Randal's Chrysler Crack (this one is a nicer ride!).

Protection 

Bring the usual rack, plus some large stuff in the six-inch range. Update: recently (2006) a bolt has appeared to protect the crux section of the crack, so really large gear is not actually needed.


Photos of Cadillac Crack Slideshow Add Photo
AJ with perfect form cruises the 5.9 crux of Cadillac Crack.  One must question what that bolt is doing there next to that nice crack.
AJ with perfect form cruises the 5.9 crux of Cadil...
AJ starting up Cadillac Crack.
AJ starting up Cadillac Crack.
AJ nearing the top of Cadillac Crack.
AJ nearing the top of Cadillac Crack.
AJ higher up on Cadillac Crack.
AJ higher up on Cadillac Crack.

Comments on Cadillac Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed that no big gear is needed with the bolt in place. I had nothing bigger than a #4, and that worked. Could bring a #6 if the bolt is not enough.
By Scott Cooper
Nov 4, 2013

I found the only gear you really will use is as many fours as you can carry, a couple 5's and two 1's and one 2.
Fantastic route, you get what you came for with this one.