Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Cadaver Crack 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: C. Reveley and D. O'Mella, 1973
Season: Faces South/Southwest
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: Tony B on May 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a short climb with lots of action packed into it, including some tough jamming and insecure feet. It is consistently harder than it appears, and folks with smaller hands will do best in this climb.
Jam up the initial slightly steep section to a flare below the bulge (5.10a). Clip fixed gear to the right and pull right into the second crack (5.10). Continue up the second crack (5.11a) and a few face holds to the next ledge, wondering how you could have ended up so pumped in just a few feet of climbing.

Back up the fixed rap with gear to belay your partner.

Finish on Cussin' Crack to the top, or rap off with a 70m to the ground below (a 60m might work too, but I did not verify.)

Location 

This climb is out and a few meters left of the belay atop of P1 of Cussin' Crack. Climb that route and traverse a few extra feet left on the ledge and belay from med-to-large nuts and med-to-small cams. The route climbs the obvious thin hands crack that goes up a few meters to a bulge, right, and then up a thin crack (crux, fixed nut and 1.75" cam) to the next ledge with a fixed rap (back it up to belay).

Protection 

Protection from 1.5-3". A set of thin-hands cams and a few large nuts would more than suffice. The crux currently holds an excellent fixed stopper and will take an off-hands (thin) cam.


Comments on Cadaver Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -