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A high concentration of sandstone boulders very close to Santa Fe. The area is about 5 miles north of Eldorado and in the Eldorado Community Open Space. As yet pretty much unexplored and un-tapped, I've seen descriptions of this area as a mini Joe's Valley but I wouldn't say that untill its fully explored. In winter when in the sun it can be 30 degrees and you can climb in a T-shirt. Climb the same problems in summer in the afternoon shade and it still isn't too hot. A great place to have some fun year round without spending too much time driving or walking.
From the Eldorado exit (exit 290 on I-25) take the frontage road (Old Las Vegas Hwy) north for a couple miles. Go right on to Ojo de la Vaca, that road goes under I-25 at the bottom of the hill. Follw this several miles and cross over the RR tracks. Go about 1 mile past the tracks, uphill to a dirt parking area on the right. The parking is just after the road turns to dirt.
Approach 1 (to easy warm-ups)
Access & Use
Technicaly to use this area you are suppose to be with an Eldorado resident. However, residents have told me that the community really doesn't care if other people use the open space as long as they are respectful, not dumping trash and liter, shooting firearms,etc. Also there are some petroglyphs at the very southern end of the main cliff band. Probably best not to climb anywhere near that area. In the past there was someone who was bouldering right on top of these petroglyphs (STUPID!) and that started getting some people up in arms. Let's respect the area and hopefully it won't get shut down. It's quite nice to have some enjoyable problems close to Santa Fe and the place is awesome in the middle of winter.
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Cotton Candy V3 6A NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Black & Tan Boulder
Start standing on good jugs and move up to a slopey edge. Head out left with some heel hooks to reach more really good holds around the southeast arete edge. Continue up passing the chicken head to the top. Great problem, there is potential for a harder sit start variation....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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