To the left of the bolted dike "Roy's Route" .11b is this nice right-leaning, right-facing corner with a thin crack. Scramble through some scrub oak and nolinas to reach an uncomfortable vegetated belay at the base. Mind the prickly pear cactus, too.
Climb up the fun tips-to-fingers corner (crux), to easier and wandering terrain above. This route really shines as a JTree "adventure climb" - expect to find some loose blocks, cactus, yucca, and some easy runouts enroute to the top. Belay on a sloping slabby ledge with a horizontal crack.
To the right of the main face containing "Taken for Granite" and "200 Motels". An obvious right facing corner down low.
To descend - see that 2" diameter scrub oak to your right with the slings? Well, you can risk rappelling off it, or just downclimb the 4th class corner back to the base like I did.
Cams/nuts from tips to 3". The larger gear is useful for the belay. Helmet for your belayer is a good idea too.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 16, 2013
I tried to lead this route, but found it too difficult to stop and place gear on the go. The right wall offers very little for the feet and the liebacking is fairly sustained. On toprope the climbing is merely pleasantly pumper.