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Starts about 15 feet right of Balcony Right directly under a large protruding block on top of the cliff. Face climb up to a break in the roof which initially includes a right-facing corner. Crank over the roof (crux) head towards the right side of the overhanging block on top.
Standard Blue Mounds toprope or possibly a very scary lead with little or no pro below the roof.
|Comments on Cactus Capers
|By Tyson S Arp|
Feb 16, 2007
I think 10b/c is a little generous for this climb! It was originally rated 5.9 and I believe that feels pretty accurate.
|By Sam Smolnisky|
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Oct 20, 2011
There is gear to protect before the roof. A few medium sized nuts and a few hand sized cams will get you up and over the roof.
|By Jon Marek|
Mar 14, 2012
Protection on this route is actually quite good. 1 medium/large nut on a long runner can be placed at the rest before the roof, and a yellow cam goes nicely into one of the pods under the roof (don't put it in the wrong one or the crux is harder). After the roof, there is no pro but the climbing is 5.3.