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L to R R to L Alpha
This cliff somehow became a small area with more routes than we expected. Faces west so it is shady in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. The rock is a Banded Gneiss with a bit of patina that begs the belayer to wear a helmet. Fun edging on routes from 40 to 80 feet long. At the south end is a leaning pillar where those looking for a little more sting will find it. As usual with these newer areas the rock leaves a little to be desired but it is mostly small stuff that will clean up with the passage of climbers. Occasionally your quickdraw will bang against the wall and give off a hollow sound as if it is in bad rock. It isn't in bad rock. The bolt is in good stuff but the rock below might have a little veneer that could give you pause but the bolts are in good stuff.
Same as for the Ruins and It Crack. Hike S. toward It Crack but bust left above the waterfall and contour around to the right on a bench that leads you to the top of the It Crack. You can also hike to the It Crack then climb the gully left of the It Crack. From the top of the gully follow a trail that has cairns on it until possible to contour to the right to a shoulder that leads to the left side of the cliff. You will want to start contouring just after passing under some short cliffs and crossing a ravine.
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Huggin' The Chubby 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Wall of the Flying Scorpion...
Overhanging arete/buttress vaguely reminiscent of Steve's Arete. A section of opposition moves reminds one of hugging your middle aged aunt. You are happy to hug her but you realize this is a different body than the one in the photos of her on the mantel. You can also pull all the way around to the left if you like crack climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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