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 ADVANCED
Hot Tamale Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Caballero Del Norte S 
Charro S 
Digital Stimulation S 
Hey Mr. Vacquero S 
Hot Tamale Baby S 
Mexican Rodeo S 
Osita S 
Popo Agie Pocket Pool S 
Ruby Shooter S 
Shootist, The S 
Wind River Rose S 
Windy City S 

Caballero Del Norte 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Oates
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 28, 2009

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Just above the low, shallow roof.

Description 

Caballero Del Norte is clearly one of the best 5.11s on The Main Wall, offering continuous climbing on excellent rock. Despite its intimidating appearance, this is a great warmup for the harder lines, or a worthy objective in its own right. This line is rather exposed and bakes in the sun most of the day, so get here early.

A few trivial moves lead to the low bulge. Make a big span to slopey pockets in the horizontal break. This move is not as hard as it looks, even for shorter folks (<5'6") who will benefit from the use of a good intermediate incut edge. Climb up into the scoop & a good shake. Cruxy moves lead onto the slab above. Follow the slab to the rounded break & a great rest. Continue up into another scoop, below a small rooflet. Sequential pockets & edges surmount the subtle bulge, and a few more engaging moves lead to the anchor.

Location 

The center of the Hot Tamale Wall has a series of four routes with a yellow roof that begins ~ 8' off the deck. This is the rightmost of these 4 routes. Also, this is the next route left of bolted "Windy City" dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.


Photos of Caballero Del Norte Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the excellent headwall of Caballero...
Enjoying the excellent headwall of Caballero...
In the first scoop.
In the first scoop.

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