|Hot Tamale Wall
Caballero Del Norte is clearly one of the best 5.11s on The Main Wall, offering continuous climbing on excellent rock. Despite its intimidating appearance, this is a great warmup for the harder lines, or a worthy objective in its own right. This line is rather exposed and bakes in the sun most of the day, so get here early.
A few trivial moves lead to the low bulge. Make a big span to slopey pockets in the horizontal break. This move is not as hard as it looks, even for shorter folks (<5'6") who will benefit from the use of a good intermediate incut edge. Climb up into the scoop & a good shake. Cruxy moves lead onto the slab above. Follow the slab to the rounded break & a great rest. Continue up into another scoop, below a small rooflet. Sequential pockets & edges surmount the subtle bulge, and a few more engaging moves lead to the anchor.
The center of the Hot Tamale Wall has a series of four routes with a yellow roof that begins ~ 8' off the deck. This is the rightmost of these 4 routes. Also, this is the next route left of bolted "Windy City" dihedral.
Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.
Enjoying the excellent headwall of Caballero...
In the first scoop.
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