This route follows an obvious corner/flake system up the east face of the mescalito. Start at two parallel cracks 75' south of a huge left facing corner.P1 Follow either crack over a low buldge,via good face holds, up into a chimney.Layback and stem up the chimney, using the crack in the right corner, to a ledge with bushes(optional belay).Hand traverse left into the corner and build a belay. 180' 5.7P2 Upward via flakes and the large right facing corner.Move right under the roof and up into the chimney/cave. Belay from the cave if your rope can make it.200' 5.6P3 From the cave go up the low angel right facing corner. Exit left after a white buldge,via cracks and plates, and up to the anchor on top of "Cat in the hat" 165' 5.6
Rappel Cat in the Hat with two ropes to decend.
A standard rack plus a #4 and 4.5 would be helpful.
BETA PHOTO: Mescaline (C11H17NO3)
|By Francis Baker (fran)|
From: Las Vegas,NV
Mar 19, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
When we did this route, we mistakenly followed the corner to its top. We continued up and to the left and slung a large bush. One long rappel, with two ropes, down a steep face to another bush. This rappel leads to a horn with slings and rings. From there, two ropes and a little down climbing put us just up gully from the start of "Cat in the Hat". The route was on good rock and protected well. I found some moves hard and scary for its original 5.5 rating.
|By Jason D. Martin|
Apr 26, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
I climbed this route today and found it to be nothing less than an "adventure climb." It often ascends flaring chimneys and includes a couple of hard to protect traverses. It was definately a fun climb, but it was also significantly more difficult and dangerous than we expected.
It amazes me that the route was ever considered a 5.5 climb. I felt that if you stayed on route that it clocked in at about 5.8, and that if you got off route the rating climbed up to about 5.9.
There were definately tricky sections on dangerous rock. The route always had enough protection, but it was not always easy to identify. As a result, this route should not be considered by beginning level leaders.
This route is a great adventure for an experienced team. The feature you climb is definately aesthetic and the climbing is interesting. If you're looking for an adventure, there's one to be found here.