|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Bob Logerquist, John Willams|
|Submitted By:||Francis Baker (fran) on Mar 17, 2005|
|Comments on C11H17NO3||Add Comment|
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By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Mar 19, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|When we did this route, we mistakenly followed the corner to its top. We continued up and to the left and slung a large bush. One long rappel, with two ropes, down a steep face to another bush. This rappel leads to a horn with slings and rings. From there, two ropes and a little down climbing put us just up gully from the start of "Cat in the Hat". The route was on good rock and protected well. I found some moves hard and scary for its original 5.5 rating.|
By Jason D. Martin
Apr 26, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
I climbed this route today and found it to be nothing less than an "adventure climb." It often ascends flaring chimneys and includes a couple of hard to protect traverses. It was definately a fun climb, but it was also significantly more difficult and dangerous than we expected.
It amazes me that the route was ever considered a 5.5 climb. I felt that if you stayed on route that it clocked in at about 5.8, and that if you got off route the rating climbed up to about 5.9.
There were definately tricky sections on dangerous rock. The route always had enough protection, but it was not always easy to identify. As a result, this route should not be considered by beginning level leaders.
This route is a great adventure for an experienced team. The feature you climb is definately aesthetic and the climbing is interesting. If you're looking for an adventure, there's one to be found here.