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Located 100 yards southwest of the firetower on the formation known as Digital Tower, this route either starts on the arete or in a crack to the left. This route is on the planar, south-facing wall of Digital Tower. If you start on the arete, step left at 50' unless you want to do the 12d arete. The route has two cruxes and a rather distracting view. Enjoy.
16 bolts if you start on the arete, cams to 2" if you follow the crack to the left.
Chris Cavallaro eye balling the crux.
Chris making the grade. You can see the fire looko...
|By david goldstein|
Sep 9, 2007
Excellent. Steeper than other climbs in the grade I've done at Devils Head. Great position, stone and a pumpy crux that can set you up for failure.
|By Derek Lawrence|
Oct 19, 2009
Awesome route! Amazing postion! Felt hard for 11c to me - couldnt get clean - perhaps 5.11c++ ??
|By Johny A|
From: Aurora . CO
Oct 29, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
|By Ernie Moskovics|
Sep 14, 2012
FA Ernie Moskovics and Tod Anderson, probably 1997. Story is, when Tod, Dave, and I first explored the East Valley of DH, we saw this line and I said, "it's the best thing in the draw". So, we TR'd it but did not link a key section on TR that day. Dave moved to Calgary, but Tzilla and I carried on, and the key was to stab and stem left for the setup to crimp the thin crack that leads up right through the crux. Tod insisted on adding a bolt on the flat wall going into the crux, so it may appear over-bolted in that section.
This is maybe the best route I was ever involved with installing and sending at DH, though it is short.
|By Glenn Schuler|
From: Monument, Co.
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
.11c++, haha yes! Love the name, loved the route! For a single pitch sport route, this thing is pretty epic. Sustained upper headwall, awesome views - DH climbing at its best. Bring some long runners for the middle section to avoid rope drag.