|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 85'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||moss1956 on Oct 23, 2010|
|Closed north of Chimney Rock. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on C N Red||Add Comment|
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By Bill McKirgan
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Nov 10, 2013
Location of Motherwall is not correct
"The route is at Motherwall, which is to the right of a prominant arch on the other side of the river about 200 yards up river from Boulevard wall. It has a vein of sandstone running through the limestone."
A more accurate description is:
The route is at Motherwall, which is to the right of a prominant arch on a rock wall located across the creek and about 200 yards DOWN STREAM from Boulevard wall. Access is gained from the main trail by crossing a narrow meadow where the trail bends and finding one of many places to cross. When the water is high you may look upstream for a log to cross, and if you have good balance you might stay dry.
Oct 12, 2015
FA: Troy Davison
Really don't think there is any sandstone in this wall, certainly won't help locate the route even if there is. The natural arch 100-150 feet left of the route gives it away as much as anything as stated. If you come down the main walk off from the top of the bluff (currently a fire pit at the top of the cliff band near the walk down), walk towards the lower parking lot on the trail for 100 yards (or as Bill McKirgan indicated 200 or so yards from Boulevard wall), then head towards the stream and cross where you can. If you find this line, you will be standing below one of the better routes in the Midwest.
Description: Just to the right of a rock filled chimney, locate a line of bolts with some rather small holds on smooth dark chocolate colored limestone. Drop the clutch and fire for the 1st large hold (traversing in from the crack will make your mother cry and your dog run away!). Keep firing a few long moves with under clings and hidden slots to the 3rd bolt where things get thinner and the 2nd crux awaits. Tech your way through this and find yourself in a sea of some of the best jug pulling in Iowa. Get a shake below the bulge/roof as some gas out pulling over this feature. Paddle through some more brilliant rock , pause and take it all in ,as you rise above the canopy and catch one of the better views Iowa has to offer.