c. Frog's Head - the Arch  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  49,418. Good page?    Administrators:  JSH, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  JSH on Feb 14, 2011 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri 82° | 57° 84° | 64° 84° | 66° 79° | 54° 75° | 48°

Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Anthony on Baby, placing his #5

Along the Cliff 

last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's

Description 

Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.

The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.

The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.

Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.

Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.8 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.

Approach: Most routes are accessed from the trail below the Baby offwidth.

Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.

There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.

For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.

For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.

Routes, left-to-right 

The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area.

Fetus: 5.9+, PG-R
Baby: 5.6, G-PG (**)
Twisted Sister: 5.8, G (**)
Easy Overhang: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X
Son of Easy O: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X
Pas de Deux: 5.8, PG (**)
Patty Duke: 5.8 (**)
City Lights: 5.7, G-PG (**)
Night Fall: 5.10, R
Frog's Head: 5.6-, G (**)
Maria: 5.6+, PG (**)
Maria Direct: 5.9, G
Sundown: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG
Jean: 5.9, PG
Precarious Perch: 5.9, PG
Sixish: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X
Drunkard's Delight: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R
Morning After: 5.8-, PG
Bloody Mary: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G
Arc of a Diver: 5.9, G
Rock and Brew: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R
Crusty Waffles, 5.10
Trusty Rifle: 5.9, G
Bloody Bush: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG
Wrist: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG
Arch: 5.5-, PG
Arch Direct: 5.9, PG
Billy Shears: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG

The Classics

Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Frog's Head 5.6  NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Another Gunks moderate classic!Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties. P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin cra...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of c. Frog's Head - the Arch Slideshow

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The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack throu...	BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.	BETA PHOTO: Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6...
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large blo...	BETA PHOTO: Bloody Bush	BETA PHOTO: Wrist. Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
BETA PHOTO: Arch	The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The ...