|c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Along the Cliff
last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's
Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.8 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.
Approach: Most routes are accessed from the trail below the Baby offwidth.
Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.
The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area.
Fetus: 5.9+, PG-R
Baby: 5.6, G-PG (**)
Twisted Sister: 5.8, G (**)
Easy Overhang: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X
Son of Easy O: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X
Pas de Deux: 5.8, PG (**)
Patty Duke: 5.8 (**)
City Lights: 5.7, G-PG (**)
Night Fall: 5.10, R
Frog's Head: 5.6-, G (**)
Maria: 5.6+, PG (**)
Maria Direct: 5.9, G
Sundown: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG
Jean: 5.9, PG
Precarious Perch: 5.9, PG
Sixish: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X
Drunkard's Delight: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R
Morning After: 5.8-, PG
Bloody Mary: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G
Arc of a Diver: 5.9, G
Rock and Brew: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R
Crusty Waffles, 5.10
Trusty Rifle: 5.9, G
Bloody Bush: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG
Wrist: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG
Arch: 5.5-, PG
Arch Direct: 5.9, PG
Billy Shears: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG
36 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for c. Frog's Head - the Arch:
Sixish 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches
Wrist 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Baby 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Maria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Bloody Bush 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
City Lights 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Jean 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Maria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Another classic moderate, with three varied pitches.Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Maria starts 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block. The start is the same as for Frog's Head and Sundown, though with some creativity (noted below), multiple parties can easily share the start(s).P1: Climb Frog's Head (note 1) until just past the crux bulge (note 2). Place pro for your second, then traverse about 35' right on thin face, with little pro, to the base of a...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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BETA PHOTO: Wrist.
Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
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BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Bush
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BETA PHOTO: Arch
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