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c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arc of a Diver T 
Arch T 
Arch Direct T 
Baby T 
Billy Shears T 
Bloody Bush T 
Bloody Mary T 
City Lights T 
Crusty Waffles T 
Drunkard's Delight T 
Easy Overhang T 
Fetus T 
Frog's Head T 
Jean T 
Kama Sutra T,TR 
Maria T 
Maria Direct T 
Maria Redirect T,TR 
Morning After T 
Night Fall T 
Pas de Deux T 
Patty Duke T 
Precarious Perch T 
Rock and Brew T 
Rusty Jam T 
Rusty Trifle T 
Scungilli T 
Sixish T 
Size Matters T 
Son of Easy O T 
Sultana T 
Sundown T 
Trusty Rifle T 
Twisted Sister T 
Uncle Rudy T 
Wrist T 

c. Frog's Head - the Arch Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.73836, -74.18537 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,468
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 14, 2011
Forecast:
Tonight

68°
Monday

89° | 70°
Tuesday

90° | 62°
Wednesday

90° | 66°
Thursday

90° | 69°
Friday

83° | 67°
You & This Area
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Anthony on Baby, placing his #5

Along the Cliff 

last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's

Description 

Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.

The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.

The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.

Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.

Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.

Approach: Most routes are accessed from the trail next to the rescue cache below the Baby offwidth. There is also an access trail below Sixish that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary.

Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.

There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.

For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.

For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.

Routes, left-to-right 

The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area.

Fetus: 5.9+, PG-R
Baby: 5.6, G-PG (**)
Twisted Sister: 5.8, G (**)
Easy Overhang: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X
Son of Easy O: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X
Pas de Deux: 5.8, PG (**)
Patty Duke: 5.8 (**)
City Lights: 5.7, G-PG (**)
Night Fall: 5.10, R
Frog's Head: 5.6-, G (**)
Maria: 5.6+, PG (**)
Maria Direct: 5.9, G
Sundown: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG
Jean: 5.9, PG
Precarious Perch: 5.9, PG
Sixish: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X
Drunkard's Delight: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R
Morning After: 5.8-, PG
Bloody Mary: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G
Arc of a Diver: 5.9, G
Rock and Brew: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R
Crusty Waffles, 5.10
Trusty Rifle: 5.9, G
Bloody Bush: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG
Wrist: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG
Arch: 5.5-, PG
Arch Direct: 5.9, PG
Billy Shears: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

36 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',9],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for c. Frog's Head - the Arch:
Easy Overhang   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Arch   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Rusty Trifle   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Sixish   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Bloody Bush   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Wrist   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Baby   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Frog's Head   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Maria   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Bloody Mary   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
City Lights   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Drunkard's Delight   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Twisted Sister   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Pas de Deux   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Morning After   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   
Son of Easy O   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Arc of a Diver   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Maria Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Arch Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Jean   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Duca on the first pitch of Frog's Head.  Pho...

Frog's Head 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Another Gunks moderate classic!Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties. P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin cra...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of c. Frog's Head - the Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt belaying Kevin on the 2nd pitch of Rusty Trif...
Matt belaying Kevin on the 2nd pitch of Rusty Trif...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sixish, first pitch.  The block on the left is 5.6...
BETA PHOTO: Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bloody Bush
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Bush
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting goofy on the Frogs Head anchor before rapp...
Getting goofy on the Frogs Head anchor before rapp...
Rock Climbing Photo: You can comfortably fit 4 on the arch.  Safely too...
You can comfortably fit 4 on the arch. Safely too...
Rock Climbing Photo: A young local that was crawling around at the base...
A young local that was crawling around at the base...
Rock Climbing Photo: Baby / Easy O approach trail.  The next trail is S...
BETA PHOTO: Baby / Easy O approach trail. The next trail is S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Frog's Head. P1.
BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sixish trailhead.  The next trail is Strickley'...
BETA PHOTO: Sixish trailhead. The next trail is Strickley'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large blo...
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large blo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arch
BETA PHOTO: Arch
Rock Climbing Photo: Wrist.    Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
BETA PHOTO: Wrist. Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
Rock Climbing Photo: The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The ...
The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sixish trailhead.
BETA PHOTO: Sixish trailhead.
Rock Climbing Photo: The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack throu...
The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack throu...

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