c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Anthony on Baby, placing his #5
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Along the Cliff
This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head
, the Drunkard's Delight
area, and the Arch
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby
. The Frog's Head
wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria
; Frog's Head
is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean
, is the Drunkard's Delight
wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight
has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush
, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch
; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs
, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head
and Morning After
, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria
, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish
(5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's
very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.8 last pitch of Sixish
; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver
, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge. Approach:
Most routes are accessed from the trail next to the rescue cache
below the Baby
The Uberfall Descent
is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head
Wall: above City Lights
(also useful for Son of Easy O
and Pas de Deux
), and just to the right of Frog's Head
(also for Sundown and Maria
). Above Baby
, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang
, City Lights
and Frog's Head
that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight
(and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight
from which you'll really
want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight
also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch
area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs
The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area. Fetus
: 5.9+, PG-R Baby
: 5.6, G-PG (**) Twisted Sister
: 5.8, G (**) Easy Overhang
: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X Son of Easy O
: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X Pas de Deux
: 5.8, PG (**) Patty Duke
: 5.8 (**) City Lights
: 5.7, G-PG (**) Night Fall
: 5.10, R Frog's Head
: 5.6-, G (**) Maria
: 5.6+, PG (**) Maria Direct
: 5.9, G Sundown
: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG Jean
: 5.9, PG Precarious Perch
: 5.9, PG Sixish
: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X Drunkard's Delight
: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R Morning After
: 5.8-, PG Bloody Mary
: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G Arc of a Diver
: 5.9, G Rock and Brew
: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R Crusty Waffles
, 5.10 Trusty Rifle
: 5.9, G Bloody Bush
: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG Wrist
: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG Arch
: 5.5-, PG Arch Direct
: 5.9, PG Billy Shears
: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
35 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for c. Frog's Head - the Arch:
Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches
Sixish 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Wrist 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Baby 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Maria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Bloody Bush 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
City Lights 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Jean 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Son of Easy O 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NY
: The Gunks
: ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
This may be the best 5.8 at the Gunks if you link both pitches: you get thin face moves, jamming, a long traverse, and a thuggish roof.Use the same access trail as for City Lights, just below the striking widening crack of Baby. The climb starts 45' left of City Lights, at a thin jagged crack with a piton about 15' up.P1: Thin face climbing and jamming will lead to a 2' ledge. 5.8, 90'. Build your own belay either directly under the corner above, or on gear 15' to the left, or exit...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6...
You can comfortably fit 4 on the arch. Safely too...
BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
A young local that was crawling around at the base...
The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack throu...
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large blo...
The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The ...
Getting goofy on the Frogs Head anchor before rapp...
BETA PHOTO: Wrist. Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
BETA PHOTO: Baby / Easy O approach trail