|c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Anthony on Baby, placing his #5
Along the Cliff
last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's
Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.8 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.
Approach: Most routes are accessed from the trail below the Baby offwidth.
Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.
The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area.
Fetus: 5.9+, PG-R
Baby: 5.6, G-PG (**)
Twisted Sister: 5.8, G (**)
Easy Overhang: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X
Son of Easy O: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X
Pas de Deux: 5.8, PG (**)
Patty Duke: 5.8 (**)
City Lights: 5.7, G-PG (**)
Night Fall: 5.10, R
Frog's Head: 5.6-, G (**)
Maria: 5.6+, PG (**)
Maria Direct: 5.9, G
Sundown: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG
Jean: 5.9, PG
Precarious Perch: 5.9, PG
Sixish: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X
Drunkard's Delight: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R
Morning After: 5.8-, PG
Bloody Mary: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G
Arc of a Diver: 5.9, G
Rock and Brew: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R
Crusty Waffles, 5.10
Trusty Rifle: 5.9, G
Bloody Bush: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG
Wrist: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG
Arch: 5.5-, PG
Arch Direct: 5.9, PG
Billy Shears: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG
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5.5 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
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5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 220 feet
5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch
: The Gunks
: ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Another Gunks moderate classic!Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties. P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin cra...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
|Photos of c. Frog's Head - the Arch Slideshow
The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack throu...
BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
BETA PHOTO: Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6...
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large blo...
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Bush
BETA PHOTO: Wrist.
Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
BETA PHOTO: Arch
The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The ...