c. Frog's Head - the Arch Rock Climbing
Anthony on Baby, placing his #5
Along the Cliff
This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head
, the Drunkard's Delight
area, and the Arch
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby
. The Frog's Head
wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria
; Frog's Head
is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean
, is the Drunkard's Delight
wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight
has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush
, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch
; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs
, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head
and Morning After
, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria
, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish
(5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's
very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish
; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver
, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge. Approach:
Most routes are accessed from the trail next to the rescue cache
below the Baby
offwidth. There is also an access trail below Sixish
that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary. Descent:
The Uberfall Descent
is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head
Wall: above City Lights
(also useful for Son of Easy O
and Pas de Deux
), and just to the right of Frog's Head
(also for Sundown and Maria
). Above Baby
, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang
, City Lights
and Frog's Head
that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight
(and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight
from which you'll really
want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight
also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch
area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs
The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area. Fetus
: 5.9+, PG-R Baby
: 5.6, G-PG (**) Twisted Sister
: 5.8, G (**) Easy Overhang
: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X Son of Easy O
: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X Pas de Deux
: 5.8, PG (**) Patty Duke
: 5.8 (**) City Lights
: 5.7, G-PG (**) Night Fall
: 5.10, R Frog's Head
: 5.6-, G (**) Maria
: 5.6+, PG (**) Maria Direct
: 5.9, G Sundown
: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG Jean
: 5.9, PG Precarious Perch
: 5.9, PG Sixish
: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X Drunkard's Delight
: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R Morning After
: 5.8-, PG Bloody Mary
: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G Arc of a Diver
: 5.9, G Rock and Brew
: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R Crusty Waffles
, 5.10 Trusty Rifle
: 5.9, G Bloody Bush
: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG Wrist
: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG Arch
: 5.5-, PG Arch Direct
: 5.9, PG Billy Shears
: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
36 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for c. Frog's Head - the Arch:
Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches
Sixish 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Wrist 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Baby 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Maria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
City Lights 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Jean 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Frog's Head 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Another Gunks moderate classic!Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties. P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin cra...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Matt belaying Kevin on the 2nd pitch of Rusty Trif...
BETA PHOTO: Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6...
Getting goofy on the Frogs Head anchor before rapp...
You can comfortably fit 4 on the arch. Safely too...
A young local that was crawling around at the base...
BETA PHOTO: Baby / Easy O approach trail. The next trail is S...
BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
BETA PHOTO: Sixish trailhead. The next trail is Strickley'...
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large blo...
BETA PHOTO: Wrist. Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The ...
BETA PHOTO: Sixish trailhead.
The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack throu...