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c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arc of a Diver T 
Arch T 
Arch Direct T 
Baby T 
Billy Shears T 
Bloody Bush T 
Bloody Mary T 
City Lights T 
Crusty Waffles T 
Drunkard's Delight T 
Easy Overhang T 
Fetus T 
Frog's Head T 
Jean T 
Kama Sutra T,TR 
Maria T 
Maria Direct T 
Maria Redirect T,TR 
Morning After T 
Night Fall T 
Pas de Deux T 
Patty Duke T 
Precarious Perch T 
Rock and Brew T 
Rusty Trifle T 
Scungilli T 
Sixish T 
Size Matters T 
Son of Easy O T 
Sultana T 
Sundown T 
Trusty Rifle T 
Twisted Sister T 
Uncle Rudy T 
Wrist T 

c. Frog's Head - the Arch 


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Location: 41.73836, -74.18537 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 86,862
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 14, 2011
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Anthony on Baby, placing his #5

Along the Cliff 

last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's


Description 

Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.

The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.

The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.

Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.

Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.8 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.

Approach: Most routes are accessed from the trail below the Baby offwidth.

Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.

There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.

For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.

For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.


Routes, left-to-right 

The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area.

Fetus: 5.9+, PG-R
Baby: 5.6, G-PG (**)
Twisted Sister: 5.8, G (**)
Easy Overhang: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X
Son of Easy O: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X
Pas de Deux: 5.8, PG (**)
Patty Duke: 5.8 (**)
City Lights: 5.7, G-PG (**)
Night Fall: 5.10, R
Frog's Head: 5.6-, G (**)
Maria: 5.6+, PG (**)
Maria Direct: 5.9, G
Sundown: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG
Jean: 5.9, PG
Precarious Perch: 5.9, PG
Sixish: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X
Drunkard's Delight: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R
Morning After: 5.8-, PG
Bloody Mary: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G
Arc of a Diver: 5.9, G
Rock and Brew: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R
Crusty Waffles, 5.10
Trusty Rifle: 5.9, G
Bloody Bush: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG
Wrist: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG
Arch: 5.5-, PG
Arch Direct: 5.9, PG
Billy Shears: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG


35 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',8],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for c. Frog's Head - the Arch:
Easy Overhang   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Sixish   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Arch   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Rusty Trifle   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Bloody Mary   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Wrist   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Baby   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Maria   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Frog's Head   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Bloody Bush   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
City Lights   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Drunkard's Delight   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Son of Easy O   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Morning After   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   
Pas de Deux   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Rock and Brew   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Arch Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Maria Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jean   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Maria Redirect   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch
The roof on P2...

Son of Easy O 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
This may be the best 5.8 at the Gunks if you link both pitches: you get thin face moves, jamming, a long traverse, and a thuggish roof.Use the same access trail as for City Lights, just below the striking widening crack of Baby. The climb starts 45' left of City Lights, at a thin jagged crack with a piton about 15' up.P1: Thin face climbing and jamming will lead to a 2' ledge. 5.8, 90'. Build your own belay either directly under the corner above, or on gear 15' to the left, or exit...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of c. Frog's Head - the Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Wrist.   <br /> <br />Bring a large piece to protect the layback crux (large crack seen beneath the leader).
BETA PHOTO: Wrist.

Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack through the very polished rock at the start.
The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack throu...
The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The crack in the foreground is the start of Son of Easy O.  There is a rope hanging over Pas de Deux.
The high climber in yellow is on City Lights. The ...
Frog's Head. P1.
BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
Bloody Bush
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Bush
Sixish, first pitch.  The block on the left is 5.6 to mantle on top of, but the moves can be protected.
BETA PHOTO: Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6...
Arch
BETA PHOTO: Arch
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large block.
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large blo...
A young local that was crawling around at the base of "Maria Direct."
A young local that was crawling around at the base...
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