P1 - Climb up the corner and traverse left below a roof or take the wide-hand crack direct start (5.9). Follow the crack system to below another roof and traverse right. Finish up with a short splitter to a tree at a ledge.
P2 - From the tree on the belay ledge, move left and climb the unprotected face. This pitch in seldom done.
Start left of the Watch Crystal and Apple Cider in a corner near a large tree.
Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot.
- Bring an extra hand-sized cam if doing the direct start.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2, "seldom done" 40' runout on moderate face...
BETA PHOTO: Byrd's Classic - leading the first roof.
The Byrd's Classic rappel. Climb Byrd's to the tr...
BETA PHOTO: The splitter at the top of Byrd's Classic.
Dass anchor looking down.
|By Seth Hunter|
Mar 6, 2011
Why has no one put up a bolted anchor at the top of this route? I've always seen people on it, so it gets the traffic that it deserves, but the absence of chains at the top makes it extremely hard to clean for a TR. I know TR'ing at East A is "Lame", but you got to learn some how.
From: Durango, CO
Mar 9, 2011
There has been a bolt anchor installed on two different occasions over the last 10 years, but someone in the community seems to take it upon themselves to chop it. I do agree that a bolted belay is no necessary since you can equalize the tree and a #3 Camalot, but it would be convenient to not have to walk over to either "Angel Dust" or "No Justice for Rodney." Most of all a bolted belay would ensure that we don't kill the poor tree that has suffered abuse for the sake of our recreational enjoyment.
|By Kevin Sainio|
From: Durango, CO
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I totally agree with a bolted anchor. Most other climbs at EA have a bolted anchor. I don't see how this goes against any kind of "ethic". Save the tree!
|By Lee Frazer|
Jun 3, 2011
I agree. Let's save the tree.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 12, 2011
I agree with adding a bolt anchor to this thing. It's a quality route and gets a good amount of traffic.
|By Devin Fin|
Aug 23, 2012
Hi, very proud an strong climbing community my name is Devin Finuane.... I have called East A my home TRAD zone for 20 years and love it!!!! On 8/22/12 I put some bomber rap rings left of the tree that has seen far far to much wear... if you got a problem with that, let me know and I will have a smart conversation with you ... hell I even buy you a beer ... please don't chop...this line is sick and needs an anchor..... Let that tree grow free, brothers and sisters. Thanks. The bolts are hand drilled 6 inch 5 pice Rawls glued in with epoxy and well out of sight.
|By Ben Kiessel|
Sep 3, 2012
Thanks for taking the time, Devin!
Hopefully people will leave them alone.
Sep 14, 2012
Thank you, Devin, and great job with the moss!