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 ADVANCED
Byrd's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel Dust T 
B-Team Arete S 
Byrd's Classic T 
Freebase T 
No Justice for Rodney T,S 
Scrubby Oaks Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Byrd's Classic 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,603
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Byrd's Classic - Second roof and hand crack above ...

Description 

P1 - Climb up the corner and traverse left below a roof or take the wide-hand crack direct start (5.9). Follow the crack system to below another roof and traverse right. Finish up with a short splitter to a tree at a ledge.

P2 - From the tree on the belay ledge, move left and climb the unprotected face. This pitch in seldom done.


Location 

Start left of the Watch Crystal and Apple Cider in a corner near a large tree.


Protection 

Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot.

  • Bring an extra hand-sized cam if doing the direct start.



Photos of Byrd's Classic Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2, "seldom done" 40' runout on moderate face climbing.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2, "seldom done" 40' runout on moderate face...
Byrd's Classic - leading the first roof.
BETA PHOTO: Byrd's Classic - leading the first roof.
The Byrd's Classic rappel.  Climb Byrd's to the tree then traverse climber's right to the chains.
The Byrd's Classic rappel. Climb Byrd's to the tr...
The splitter at the top of Byrd's Classic.
BETA PHOTO: The splitter at the top of Byrd's Classic.
Dass anchor looking down.
Dass anchor looking down.
Comments on Byrd's Classic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Seth Hunter
Mar 6, 2011

Why has no one put up a bolted anchor at the top of this route? I've always seen people on it, so it gets the traffic that it deserves, but the absence of chains at the top makes it extremely hard to clean for a TR. I know TR'ing at East A is "Lame", but you got to learn some how.

By IanA
From: Durango, CO
Mar 9, 2011

There has been a bolt anchor installed on two different occasions over the last 10 years, but someone in the community seems to take it upon themselves to chop it. I do agree that a bolted belay is no necessary since you can equalize the tree and a #3 Camalot, but it would be convenient to not have to walk over to either "Angel Dust" or "No Justice for Rodney." Most of all a bolted belay would ensure that we don't kill the poor tree that has suffered abuse for the sake of our recreational enjoyment.

By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I totally agree with a bolted anchor. Most other climbs at EA have a bolted anchor. I don't see how this goes against any kind of "ethic". Save the tree!

By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 3, 2011

I agree. Let's save the tree.

By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 12, 2011

I agree with adding a bolt anchor to this thing. It's a quality route and gets a good amount of traffic.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Aug 23, 2012

Hi, very proud an strong climbing community my name is Devin Finuane.... I have called East A my home TRAD zone for 20 years and love it!!!! On 8/22/12 I put some bomber rap rings left of the tree that has seen far far to much wear... if you got a problem with that, let me know and I will have a smart conversation with you ... hell I even buy you a beer ... please don't chop...this line is sick and needs an anchor..... Let that tree grow free, brothers and sisters. Thanks. The bolts are hand drilled 6 inch 5 pice Rawls glued in with epoxy and well out of sight.

By Ben Kiessel
Sep 3, 2012

Thanks for taking the time, Devin!
Hopefully people will leave them alone.

By samtoine
Sep 14, 2012

Thank you, Devin, and great job with the moss!