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Snowshed Wall
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Bypass 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: Lurker on Mar 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Elizabeth Scott pulling the crux

Description 

An unsung classic for Donner Summit....climb through blocky sections to a nice hand crack. Take a rest, plug a few pieces, and gun the airy roof. Finish up crack to right with new anchors.

Location 

Up in the West gully of Snowshed, on the left side. Just right of the large chimney system, and left of Turoid Roof (5.12+?).

Protection 

Gear to 3", chain(?) anchors.


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By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Aug 20, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super awesome climb! The new book has it at 5.10d, I think 11a is fair but who cares... tricky moves to mantle over the roof (which for me was harder than pulling the roof itself). Possible to place a piece overhead to protect while locked off, but strenuous and blocks that fingerlock for the mantle move... better to go for it if you're up for it, I suppose.
By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Aug 20, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Absolutely stellar. The exposure is 5 stars alone, and the many challenging moves are excellent to say the least. Wow. 11a is probably fair given the "10d, errr 11b circuit" Donner standard ;-)
By Colonel Mustard
11 hours ago

This is a firm entry in the Snowshed Sleeper Classic Circuit. It drips with exudate of LOB (Locals Only Brah).

Somehow, it's a line that just blends into the scenery and is easily overlooked. Once you climb this route, you realize the fun you were missing.

Varied movement, from liebacks, to a bit o' wide, to a roof more at home in the sport climbing idiom, you really can't go wrong. I like a single #4 camalot a bit lower on the route and doubles of fingers to #3 camalot. My go to piece at the lip jug is a .75" camalot in the horizontal. Bring yer slings for rope drag.
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